Bernie Whitmore

I will admit, the first time I went to Maddi’s, I was dubious. This doubt wasn’t based upon anything I’d read or had heard about the cuisine; it was more a trepidation I felt when faced with the exuberant throng of shiny selfie-takers packed around the bar and spilling out the entrance onto the sidewalk. It was clearly a crowd I’d aged out of long ago, but still I wondered: Is this a place you go to be seen or to get good food and drink?

Then, immediately after being served, I realized none of that really mattered. The food was delicious, imaginative and capable of surprise.

That initial experience took place soon after Maddi’s had opened; to get a better sense of the place, I asked a friend to accompany me for a return visit.

Maddi’s is located in Worcester’s Canal District and occupies a couple storefronts, with a bar and dining space on the entrance side and a kitchen that opens up to the larger dining room on the other side. Both rooms are decorated with advertising signs you may have found on Water Street 50 years ago. We were seated at a high-top table in the window and served by Rhea, who freely offered conversation, helpful advice and, of course, excellent service.

When it comes to beer, Maddi’s takes seriously its TapRoom moniker, with a selection that varies on a regular basis in a range of types that aims to satisfy each of our preferences. I chose a glass of Laser Cat, an Imperial IPA brewed in Hudson by the Medusa Brewing Company. My friend was pleased enough with his glass of Rekorderlig Strawberry-Lime Hard Cider that he offered me a taste.

Remember Charms Blow Pops? That’s what this cider reminded me of – candy sweet. We all have our preferences; I was relieved to return to my glass of Cat with its Citra hop palette of flavors.

For our appetizer, we decided to share an order of Shrimp Potstickers. Soft and moist on top, pan-fried to a firm deep golden-brown on their bottoms, the order of six was a satisfying start. Each contained generously sized chunks of fresh shrimp and were served with a spicy dipping sauce.

Moving to entrées, I chose an item from Maddi’s autumn-inspired menu. Autumn Scallops was a composition of five butternut raviolis, each topped with a large pan-seared scallop and served over tarragon brown butter. Autumn swept into this dish in the form of roasted wild mushrooms, which lent an elegant, earthy flavor, especially as they soaked up some of that tarragon butter. And finally, a scattering of candied pecan pieces contributed a bit of sweet and crunch.

Some menu items seem perfect for taking stock of a kitchen’s culinary skill. No, I don’t have Veal Ossobuco or Oysters Rockefeller in mind (not right now, anyway). How about Fried Chicken & Waffle? That was my friend’s entrée choice, and I took a keen interest in his experience.

Maddi’s starts with a huge, cheesy waffle that has bacon bits cooked right in. The chef tops this with boneless chicken pieces coated in a spicy dry rub and fried a crunchy, light golden brown. All this is topped with an egg fried sunny side up. That’s unusual, but the real difference with Maddi’s is in the jalapeño-infused maple syrup.

At some restaurants, Chicken & Waffle devolves into an Aunt Jemima experience of buckets of sticky-sweet maple syrup heated till it envelops the dish in a cloying vapor. Not so at Maddi’s. The maple syrup is an ideal mix of sweet and spicy. And if you need an extra shot of fire, try one of the coin-sized discs of fried jalapeño pepper slices surrounding the waffle.

As my friend was trying to get a fix on the dry rub ingredients, Chris O’Harra, Maddi’s executive chef, stopped by and got specific for us: “The dry rub? Brown sugar, Cajun seasoning, cumin and coriander. A little sweet; a little heat. It’s a winning combination!”

When things are going this well, I’m often up for dessert. A quick review of the menu revealed the obvious choice: Berry Berry Bread Pudding. Served with frills of real whipped cream, the huge chunk of bread pudding was oozing the purple syrup of blueberries and blackberries. But this dish could also have been called Eggy Eggy; the softened bread was baked into a rich, luxurious custard.

Looking back at my initial impression, it’s obvious that I’d forgotten something fundamental about Worcester: Restaurants with the pedigree of Maddi’s generate big excitement. When a place is as fun as Maddi’s Cookery & TapHouse and surpasses expectations of delicious food, you might just have to wait a few minutes in line.

Maddi’s Cookery & TapHouse
64 Water St, Worcester
(508) 459-1080
maddiscookery.com