Nikki Koppel
Called by the elemental forces of Earth, Water, Fire, Air and Spirit, devotees of the restaurant deadhorse hill celebrate the Equinox in the magical garden that is Rattle Root Farm.
On September 21, I was privileged to attend the second annual Autumnal Equinox Dinner at Rattle Root Farm. The collaboration that manifested this stellar evening is rooted, no pun intended, in the relationships cultivated, again no pun intended, over a decade between the gifted restaurateur and chef Jared Forman, his wife, Julia, and the owners and operators of Rattle Root Farm.
Peter Herceg, Joey Hirsh and Hannah Romig purchased the 6 acres of land in 2022 after years of studying best farming practices and proceeded in building a community of restaurants, markets and individuals passionate about farm-to-table dining and respecting the land. I have been to many farms, but here, visitors are treated to a sensory experience that grounds the mind and body and uplifts the human spirit. According to Jared, it was the farm itself that cried out for the creation of this event.
I arrived at 4p.m. as the sun began a slow dip in the sky, aware that on this day, the Northern and Southern hemisphere line up equally and the hours of day and night are mostly the same. I thought: We are here honoring balance and harmony with our planet and with each other. How fortunate to be in this place to share this moment, where it felt as if time was about to be suspended and the party was about to begin.
This was an hour before the guests were expected, so I was able to witness the final preparations and instructions for the staff. In true deadhorse hill fashion, every detail of the event was thoughtfully orchestrated with intention and precision in support of Jared’s vision. He is a quintessential auteur.
I walked the uneven grounds and marveled at the central garden and towering sunflowers, which displayed an endless array of colors. In addition to their beauty and fragrance, they seemed to be ambassadors of good will, happy to see me.
My vision turned to what was deemed the pagan altar, an homage to the world’s hidden wonders and magic that I suspect is at the heart of Chef Jared and his creations. There was a circular seating area constructed of benches and haybales, ideally designed for storytelling and gathering, with blankets provided in anticipation of the certain drop in temperature to come.
Table stations were strategically placed offering aperitifs, pressed apple cider and apple wines with additional wine pairings served throughout the evening. Of the many I tasted, all were light yet earthy, fruity and refreshing.
By 5p.m., under the watchful eye of the majestic Wachusett Mountain and with Dionne Warwick’s voice filling the air with easy-listening, nostalgic tunes, the guests began to arrive. Many brought offerings of handmade wreaths, herbs, shells and even rocks to lay at the altar. They happily leaned into the theme of the evening.
As the guests mingled, I found myself entering the flower walk where we were treated to a sampling of robust flavors and chefs happy to share the secrets of their delicacies. I witnessed, and myself displayed, lots of head shaking up and down and collective, audible “mm-mm’s” as these starters were devoured with care and curiosity.
The tetelas, prepared on a clay platter over charcoal, were my favorite. I could have made a meal out of them but stopped at two and behaved myself. Annie’s Oaxaca cheese, was stretchy, gooey and bursting with flavor and freshness. Bonus: Annie, the bonafide maker of the cheese, was sitting next to me at dinner, and she was the real deal. Chances are, if you’re eating cheese at deadhorse hill, Annie made it.
The walk continued and provided delectable “matrimono pintxo,” courtesy of TapaVino’s, my next stop for an evening out I planned over dinner with another new friend, and pie tee, a Malaysian specialty with foie gras and elderberry jam. The description of ingredients and preparation cannot convey how sexy, yes sexy, this food was. I say sexy because the combination of complex flavors and textures woven together created a sensual experience. This was powerful food.
At the end of the flower walk, Joey and Hannah, the farmers themselves, awaited, inviting guests to form small groups, fill up on wine and tour the farm, where the connection between farm and table could be fully appreciated. The guests asked questions, tasted prepared peppers hanging from vines in the hydroponic green house and became integral to the surroundings.
As the temperature was dropping along with the sun, the palpable warmth of this newly formed community was rising and dinner was announced. Sixty people entered the banquet area consisting of three long tables, close enough together to appear as one. It was outdoors, and yet felt as welcoming as the feasting hall of a grand estate. Flowers, herbs and vegetables organically provided this natural break in the vegetation, and twinkling lights were strung to create the ideal setting for outdoor, family-style dining.
In waves, delivered by cheerful, enthusiastic servers, the meal was presented. The first course was a simple scrumptious scallop, served on a shell in a bone marrow broth. and I can say with all honesty, it was the best scallop I have ever eaten, and having the one was perfection. This was followed with a delicate cup containing three flawless cheese tortellini swimming in a light tomato broth. Going, going, gone.
As food arrived and disappeared, the conversation flowed as freely as the wine and the joyful collective consciousness of the group grew. The family-style service heightened the underlying spirit of communal care, with guests attentively ensuring everyone tasted every dish and had their fill.
Platters were passed: creamy polenta with a vegetable sugo, grilled Caesar salad, whole fish salsa verde, root vegetable pave, poached whole chicken romesco, and melt in your mouth dry-aged rib-eye with Hatch chili. The food was beyond delicious; it was transformative, aligning with and acknowledging, in its own way, the celebration of the transition from summer to fall. The constant spinning of the earth on its axis and the inevitability of change resonated with each bite.
As the dinner concluded, guests, now friends, moved to the dessert area where they could gather and continue the celebration under the stars, by the fireside. Soul-stirring, make-your-own sundaes conjured memories of summer camp. The best of times returned to through the senses, powerful memories reframed and renewed.
I think we could have slept out under the stars, as no one wanted the evening to end. I’m left with feelings of joy, connection and gratitude. I anticipate that Jared and his network of like-minded artists, who feel compelled to create new and exciting ways to celebrate food and community, will continue this tradition and initiate more events like this in the future.
It was numinous.