Bernard Whitmore
¡TapaVino!
Worcester Public Market
160 Green St., Worcester
Phone: (508) 614-9475
We’ve come to depend upon Worcester Public Market for intriguing niche cuisines. Of course, that’s just part of its mission; as a Public Market they offer retail browsing opportunities largely vanished from most Worcester streets. Since opening, though, they’ve hosted international cuisines not generally encountered in town.
TapaVino turned out to be an excellent extension of that tradition: a relaxed, Barcelona-spirited tapas bar with sophisticated small plates buttressed by unusual daily specials, and value strong enough to make us double-check the bill.
In retrospect, finding a parking space right outside their door would prove to be a good omen. The Public Market wasn’t very busy on this midweek evening, but TapaVino saw a steady stream of diners; we waited a few minutes while they cleared a table for us.
With hot and cold tapas, specialty drinks and a focused wine list, assembling our order was easy. Because some tapas restaurants serve surprisingly large portions, we started out with just a couple of items and kept the menu at hand.
First, though, we made our wine selections. My glass of Faustino Tempranillo from Rioja, Spain had the bright flavor of tart berries aged in oak. It would prove perfect with our starters: Green Olive and Basil Tapenade and bright green Arugula Almond Pesto. Served in small cups, they came on a wooden slab with water crackers and lightly toasted baguette slices. There were two other dip selections; I think our choices provided a relaxed and tasty way to start the evening.
From a menu scattered with sophisticated items, we teamed up our dips with Wagyu Steak Tartare, coarsely minced raw beef blended with bits of guindilla chili pepper for just a touch of heat and, according to the menu, capers. We didn’t see much evidence of capers, but I noticed rustic whole grain mustard in the heaping portion served on crusty bread. Tartare isn’t an item found on many menus, I suspect some people balk at the notion of raw beef. That’s too bad, the capable chef at TapaVino prepares a perfectly fresh and delicious interpretation of this classic of French cuisine.
Their chalkboard specials shifted the meal from sampling to centerpiece. While waiting for our table, I had noticed one especially intriguing item: Butternut Gnocchi. Gnocchi is always a risky dish. But at a tapas bar? With expectations kept firmly in check, we decided to order it.
From the moment our plate of Butternut Gnocchi was presented, I was impressed. And then I tasted it and knew we’d encountered something exceptional. The gnocchi themselves were tender and billowy soft. And they came drenched in a mega-creamy sauce tinted pink by pureed Urfa chili peppers for a bit of heat and smoky flavor. The chef further layered the spicy flavor profile with bits of Nduja di Spilinga – Italian pork sausage packed with Calabrian chilis. Crushed pistachio nuts provided a pleasing crunch.
Such excellent gnocchi! Who saw that coming? And with such a large portion size we each had our fill!
We completed our meal with another tapas item, Albondigas. These Spanish meatballs were made with beef and chorizo sausage, presented in a small iron skillet pooled with oil flavored by saffron, tomato and smoky paprika and topped with shredded cheese. By now, my friend’s appetite was conking out, but, finding it irresistible, I persevered and dipped toasted baguette slices in the remaining sauce and molten cheese.
Exciting flavor profiles and an informal spirit are what stayed with us. TapaVino is certainly not the only tapas restaurant in the area, but we believe it comes the closest to the Barcelona experience: the long bar, small tables, relaxed pace and confident cooking. And such value! Convinced that the bill was omitting items, I verified it and found everything listed accurately.
My only regret was that we didn’t get to order their dessert “Collab” with FroZone; Olive Oil Gelato. We love FroZone; all their gelato flavors are reminiscent of what we’ve enjoyed in Firenze; this one will have to wait till our next visit.