638 Chandler Street, Worcester
Phone: (508) 796-5614
scruffymurphysworcester.com

Bernard Whitmore 

Taking heed of the exceedingly good dining experiences we’ve enjoyed at Funky Murphys in recent months, we decided to head west to their cross-town location in Tatnuck Square. 

On the surface, there’s no way you’d associate the two locations. Where Funky Murphys embraces its Shrewsbury Street-facing location with a wall of windows that open to the sidewalk in warmer months, Scruffy Murphys is tucked into the corner of a strip mall, a Friendly’s Restaurant conversion.

But that doesn’t mean Scruffy Murphys is less fun. On the day we went there, the dining room was so packed that we agreed to share a table with another party and serving staff had to squeeze sideways between packed tables. The place was energized with laughter and conversations that rose above a soundtrack of rock-pop slash country-adjacent music.

My friend suggested we start with the Onion Rings appetizer. “A bit mundane, but why not?” I thought. But then they were served, and at first glance I could see these weren’t rings hauled in from the onion factory. And as soon as I tasted one my casual regard for his choice gave way to eager endorsement.

Scruffy’s rings, thick slices of large Spanish onions, were slathered with batter and deep-fried to a crumbly-rich golden brown. The crunchy breading had no trace of oily residue, and its slightly granular texture was so tasty we looked up and spontaneously remarked, “These hafta be home-made!” The only improvement I might recommend would be to match Scruffy’s rings with a glass of Seven, the hazy IPA from Holden’s Seven Saws Brewing. Its mildly bitter citrus notes taste great with the salt/sweet flavors of the rings.

Just as I was ready to order the rack of BBQ Ribs entrée, my attention shifted to another menu, and I adjusted my decision to their Lobster Roll. “Mayonnaise or butter?” the waiter asked. That there might be a format choice for lobster rolls caught me off guard and, in the heat of the moment, I chose butter.

Scruffy Murphy’s lobster roll: a soft hotdog bun packed with meat from the claws, knuckles and chunks of tail meat. Plus a surprising number of needle-thin strands you get if you’re patient enough to extract meat from the spindly legs that give mobility to the lobster. What I learned from my butter-choice was that the tang of cool mayonnaise uplifts the flavor of lobster. In contrast, hot butter seemed to flatline it. A squeeze or two of lemon juice awakened the characteristic sweetness and freshness we expect in lobster meat.

As with most other restaurants, Scruffy’s serves theirs with French fries. A heaping pile of them. Soon, though, after sampling a couple, I had to ask: how can a kitchen so masterful with onion rings go so wrong with French fries? Absent the expected crispy, crunchy potato flavor, they were soft, pallid and mealy. My disappointment was tempered by the fact that I really didn’t need another serving of fried food; it felt virtuous to leave them on my plate.

In addition to their basic menu that features an extensive selection of appetizers, sandwiches, burgers and entrées, Scruffy Murphy’s also has ‘Weekly Specials’ and ‘Weekday Specials’ menus. The Weekday menu for the day we were there (Tuesday) featured ‘All you can eat tacos’ for $9.99 and Prime Rib Dinner for $12.99. ‘All you can eat’ is a hugely popular item, no matter what it’s attached to, and plate after plate of tacos flew out of the kitchen that evening. 

My friend chose the Prime Rib Dinner and never stopped praising it. For the price, one might think they would load the roast onto a meat slicer and dial it down to the cold cut setting. But this thick slab of beef, classically marbled with fat to assure juicy flavor, covered at least half of his dinner plate and was medium-rare pink and tender, just as he requested.  It came with mashed potatoes and bright-green string beans. Beef lovers (and bargain seekers), take note!

Fun, value, good food and drink. The Funky – Scruffy Murphy proprietors have a winning menu and hospitality formula. And they know how to tweak that formula to cater to their neighborhoods. We’ve added them to our regular dining rotation.