thePULSE
Bernie Whitmore
Mexicali Cantina Grill
225 Shrewsbury Street, Worcester
508-926-8811
When the British Beer Company (BBC) opened at this location on 225 Shrewsbury St., not so many years ago, I was surprised to see such a lavish investment with theme-park elements touch down on Worcester’s Restaurant Row. After all, the town’s dining renaissance was based on flavor, innovative cuisines and the excitement of discovering what we, as a community, could achieve.
The BBC didn’t feel like any of that, so when they closed I wasn’t sure if I should feel vindicated or sorry for the failure. Chalk up another one for Darwin’s Theory of Natural Selection.
On the street built by Italian cuisine, it was surprising to see Mexican fare fill the void that the BBC left behind. Mexican might work, but it would take more than hanging a few sombreros on the wall and frying churros for dessert.
These thoughts were on my mind when I met my friend for our first meal at Mexicali Cantina. I’d been to their location in Holden, so I knew it wasn’t a freezer-to-deep-fryer operation. Still, I promised myself to focus laser-sharp on the cuisine.
Forgoing my usual draft beer selection process, I asked Juanita, our server, for a margarita recommendation. For some reason she intuited I wanted ‘strong’ drink and guided me to the Presidente, a mix of Casadores Tequila, orange liqueur and Presidente brandy. It arrived in a thick glass chalice whose stem was made of globs of green glass shaped like cacti.
The first indication that dinner at Mexicali might transcend my expectations was, innocently enough, their salsa. I’d come to expect little more than something poured out of a jar at most Mexican-American restaurants, but this one was different and was even subtle. With flecks of cilantro and bits of red pepper it had something of a smoky smolder that gathered to a pleasant after-burn. Forget the tortilla chips, I finished my little bowl with a spoon!
Our appetizer, Guacamole Fresco for two, was billed as ‘made to order’. Within moments of ordering it a young woman was wheeling a cart to our table and slicing open creamy-ripe avocadoes. Delightfully bashful, her command of English was sufficient to guide us through the specifications. Lime? Yes. Chilis? Yes. Cilantro? Yes. Basically, ‘Yes’ to all options.
The mashed-up results were a vibrantly delicious guacamole. The touch of lime accented avocado flavor and she deftly balanced the textures and flavors all the other ingredients.
Mexicali’s menu is extensive with all the sections you’ve come to expect in Mexican cuisine. But they also had a full-color laminated supplement with an item that piqued my interest. I usually ignore plastic-coated menus on the presumption that they’re pushing pre-packaged fare that’s the most profitable and least fulfilling. However, when I spotted Sopa de Mariscos my entrée decision was made.
So much for that belief system! My bowl of seafood soup proved to be a special treat.
I was served a deep bowl of spicy-rich sofrito based broth just packed with seafood and a few stray slices of savory vegetables. The chef lavished the portion with several jumbo shrimp, chunks of white fish, scallops, mussels and baby clams ‘in shell’. The steaming bowl had just the right degree of spicy heat and luxurious fish-flavored brothiness. Each species of mariscos was tender, juicy and fresh. Lovers of bouillabaisse should take note of this dish; Mexicali’s Sopa de Mariscos is a great value and wonderfully tasty dining opportunity.
Generous portioning was also in force with my friend’s entrée, Pork Carnitas. This huge plate-load featured guacamole, rice and refried beans topped with melted queso fresco. The real attraction, though, was the pork; five or six large cuts of slow cooked pork loin in a garlicky tomato broth. My friend enthused, “The star of the dish is the pork; with big robust flavors. This place isn’t bashful with flavor!”
Even our dessert, Flan, was exceptional. Another large portion, it had the classic creamy custard consistency one expects. However, its flavor was extended dimensionally by the infusion of coffee liqueur. Fear not, this wasn’t a cloyingly sweet adjustment; the hint of coffee flavor was perfectly restrained.
Our visit to Mexicali Cantina Grill was a welcome surprise. The décor had been updated with restraint, the music was Pan-American with flourishes of salsa you’ll want to tag with Shazam. But the best part was the cuisine; generous flavors and portions served by a team that delivered friendly hospitality.
Isn’t that the formula that made Shrewsbury Street famous?
