After opening early this year, El Patron earned considerable buzz in the community – all favorable. Then, a few weeks ago, it was praised even more vigorously by friends who have spent enough time in Mexico to credibly vouch for “authentic.” That made it inevitable; I decided I had to pay a visit and see for myself. So on a recent Friday evening, I met a couple friends at El Patron for dinner.

When conducting a dining review, I’m wary of first impressions and strive to keep an open mind throughout the duration of the meal. However, when one’s first encounter is as encouraging as mine was at El Patron, well, my expectations ramped right up to the level of those enthusiastic recommendations.

I’ll get specific. Approaching El Patron, I was impressed by how packed it was and steeled myself to endure a prolonged wait. The queuing area was jam-packed exclusively with Mexicans, and the mood was high-energy. Mexicans in a Mexican restaurant? Not a bad sign! Which indicated to me that this was either a huge extended family or the sign of authentic cuisine. Or, better yet, both.

Curiously enough, as crowded as the room appeared, a very large party was seated, and in no time at all, we were shown to a table and greeted by Angel, our server. After requesting a glass of beer, I took a moment to reacquaint myself with my surroundings. If you have dined in any of the previous incarnations of this room, you will be familiar with the layout of El Patron; other than surface decoration, the dining room is unchanged. The same is true of its acoustic signature. Which is a polite way of saying, “This place is loud!”

Angel set us up with a bowl of salsa and fresh corn chips for flavorful munching while we browsed the menu. But for me, the choice was simple; I was on a mission to enjoy good chile rellenos, and El Patron’s had been singled out for praise. Just as easy a choice was our appetizer. A few years ago, in another establishment across town, I’d savored a bowl of guacamole that verged on exquisite. Now, it was time to see how El Patron’s measured up.

Entrée decisions made, we sat back and enjoyed the zesty salsa and tortilla chips and sipped draft beers from thick, chunky glasses – Dos Equis Lager and Modelo Especial. Both are Mexican imports, crisp and refreshing. Soon, the guacamole was served with another basket of those fresh tortilla chips. When I say fresh, I mean right out of the hot oil. In fact, some chips still had hot-oil flex to them.

And the guacamole? On the positive side of the ledger were the avocados – fresh, creamy-ripe and a bit lumpy. Just right. But hard as I tried, I just couldn’t discern the clean flavor of cilantro. Nor, for that matter, green onions. But I could see plenty of chunks of diced tomato. I know the kitchen isn’t shy with flavor; cilantro came through loud and clear in the salsa. But how about sharing it with the guacamole?

Yeah, I’ve nitpicked. But that didn’t stop me from plowing through more than my share of the big molcajete of guacamole. It’s impossible to resist! And soon, Angel was back with our entrées – big platters that included sides of refried beans topped with melty shreds of soft cheese and large, perfectly shaped domes of luscious rice.

I approached my Chile Rellenos with high expectations that were met in every way. Two meaty poblano peppers, roasted until rich and soft, were stuffed with soft cheese, quickly dredged in egg batter and fried until they reached a light, golden brown. The combinations of textures and flavors exceeded any others I’ve ordered in the past decade or so. The poblanos retained a shadow of their chili heat, neatly offset by that tasty soft rice and a scoop of guacamole served over shredded lettuce.

Taking a break from my chile rellenos, I wanted to see if others were as satisfied with their entrees.

The Enchiladas Rojas, corn tortillas dipped in red sauce, elicited this report, “Stuffed with shredded chicken, cheese and topped with chunks of lettuce and tomatoes and spicy hot peppers. Which is good! And authentic! It’s got that Mexican cheese on it.”

Joining us for Friday night dinner, my neighbor had ordered the Fish Taco Plate – two corn tortillas with fried fish topped with chipotle mayonnaise and pico de gallo salad. One quick glance was all it took for me to see that the pico de gallo was made with fresh ingredients and topped with a wedge of lime. But how did it taste?

“I like it! You gotta eat it with a knife and fork because the big pile [of ingredients] doesn’t fit in the soft taco. The fish has a light batter on it, with veggies piled over it!”

Scattered throughout the dining room were large parties celebrating birthdays. If sheer decibels are an indicator, I don’t think it could be argued that El Patron stages the most boisterous birthday celebration anywhere north of the border. Such high energy – and such delicious cuisine – makes El Patron an excellent choice for dinner any day of the year.

El Patron Mexican Restaurant | 192 Harding St., Worcester, MA | 508-757-8000

By Bernie Whitmore