By Bernard Whitmore

Volturno, the latest entry into the Shrewsbury Street dining district, has made its home in the long-vacant Buick building at the lower end of the street. This highly anticipated restaurant marks the crossing of a threshold, of sorts. There was a time when any high-budget newcomer would be automatically dismissed for the sin of brashness. The longer I watched resources being poured into the Volturno project, the more I expected to hear a knee-jerk chorus of ‘Hated it!’ after its opening.

But that hasn’t happened. Instead, people are simply enjoying Volturno’s thin-crust pizza. And then, when the weather warmed up, Volturno opened a wall of doors onto a splendid stone patio. Finally! Al fresco dining not crammed onto a narrow sidewalk! A friend and I were fortunate enough to occupy one of these tables recently. As we enjoyed the warm setting sun, memories of winter melted away.

Let’s go back inside for a moment. At the center of Volturno’s dining room is a long rectangular bar surrounded by a variety of table configurations. At the far end from the entrance are two kiln-like, wood-fired ovens paved with shiny mosaic tiles and set on marble platforms. These ovens generate the high temperatures necessary to put the perfect char on pizza dough. The high ceiling provides plenty of space for the ovens’ heat to dissipate; huge windows look out onto the street and beyond, to the busy rail yard.

Once you’re seated, attention naturally turns to the menus, which are basic listings that appear to be hand-typed on an old Remington and affixed to clipboards. Be ready for plenty of Italian, no punctuation and all capitals. I’m sure your waiter will assist, but why not take the challenge? With some rudimentary Italian and foodie expertise, you can parse these descriptions for yourself.

We started with the Calamari appetizer. Unlike every other menu in North America, these were not breaded and deep-fried. Volturno marinates its calamari with a touch of chili heat and grills them for mild, smoky flavor. They’re served with chickpeas and tiny olives over a white bean puree. What a delicious departure!

A glass of Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Capestrano provided a depth of flavor rich enough to complement the tasty calamari.

The creators of Volturno’s Arugula Salad devised a combination of flavor and textural counterpoints: peppery arugula leaves, chunks of sweet golden beets, toasted hazelnuts and creamy blue cheese. The light vinaigrette dressing held the main ingredients together without distracting. Not a single tasty leaf was left behind.

Although Volturno’s professed focus is pizza, it also has pasta offerings and several entrées. This evening, my friend ordered the Half-Chicken. From the Misty Knoll Farms in Vermont, this free-range chicken was naturally moist and flavorful. The chef roasted it to a deep, golden brown and served it on a bed of foraged mushrooms, tender peas and meaty fava beans in a buttery sauce. Days later, my friend phoned to ensure that I wouldn’t forget to note the tasty chicken and sweet richness of the favas.

When good pizza’s around, I don’t stray far. I’m fond of all varieties ~ white, red, deep-dish and cracker-thin. Everyone has a favorite; pizza seems to inspire passionate loyalty. But for me, a good thin-crust pizza usually edges out the others, and Volturno has a dozen varieties. It’s my goal to try them all.

This evening, I ordered the Lemon Pizza. Volturno starts with its homemade dough, adds basil leaves, a generous scattering of smoked mozzarella cheese for deep richness of flavor and a layer of razor-thin lemon slices. Then, it’s into the hot oven long enough to get a dappling of dark char that brings out the nutty flavor of the dough. The lemon comes out soft and tender, with zones of flavor from the fruit, pith and zesty yellow peel. And the creamy smokiness of the mozzarella … Meraviglioso!

How about pizza for dessert? Volturno’s Nutella Pizza (its only dessert offering) takes that versatile dough, puffed up in the high heat of the oven, then slices it open and slathers it with the creamy chocolate-hazelnut spread. Sent through a blizzard of powdered sugar, it comes to the table cut in six irresistible wedges. Take any leftovers home for breakfast tomorrow!

Al fresco dining at Volturno Pizza: Worcester, I think this is the beginning of a beautiful friendship.

Volturno Pizza
72 Shrewsbury Street Worcester
(508) 756-8658 | volturnopizza.com