Dine-in,Take-Out, Catering
By Bernie Whitmore

Hey, I’m no expert on Mexican cuisine, but like most Worcesterites I can sniff out a good deal, honest indie ethos, funky décor and fun time ~ not to mention a killer burrito. So since at least a year had passed since I’d last sat amidst Tortilla Sam’s gallery of chili pepper art, I didn’t have to think twice when a friend suggested heading out to what is, with good reason, a favorite late-night dining destination for the city’s many college students.

We arrived just in time; there was an empty parking place waiting for us and we were seated just before the restaurant filled to capacity. I sat facing the waiters’ station, which, although a ramshackle affair of broken drawers and abandoned cooking implements, contributes to the strangely comforting and home-cooked-meal-appeal of the entire operation. Looking beyond that hub of activity I could see the dining room with its lizard-stenciled walls, thick stucco and rich red paint, all warmly lit. An overhead TV flickered to life with a puppetish Christmas special, perfect for the invasion of little kids, parents in tow.

Tortilla Sam’s doesn’t serve alcohol, but they’ll set you up with ice and bottle openers if you bring your own (we had chosen not to indulge this night, but folks at adjoining tables could be seen enjoying Coronas ~ for which TS’s will provide lemons ~ throughout the evening). Our waiter, an affable young fellow, arrived with a basket of tortilla chips and salsa (homemade and deliciously chunky) for dipping. One of the nice little treats at TS’s is that each basket comes with two kinds of chips ~ the traditional corn chip and the restaurant’s special recipe thick and buttery chips…crispness abounds.

Being as keen on paper products as I am, I love the fact that each table comes with its own roll of paper towels ~ little perks such as endless paper towels can be so exciting! I asked for a glass of unsweetened iced tea and my friend had ginger ale. Both were dispensed from a hose and refilled frequently, and we also could have chosen bottled water, Orangina, coffee or hot tea.

Tortilla Sam’s menu is a sight to behold ~ appetizers, burritos, tacos, quesadillas, chimichangas, combo platters, sizzling fajita platters, soups, cantina specials, ensaladas, special “Gringo fare,” kids’ favorites, and even desserts. Special consideration is given for vegetarians, vegans, folks with wheat or flour allergies, and those “Pepperheads” who like their food extra spicy ~ talk about accommodating! Just talk to your server.

My friend ordered one of the day’s specials, the Killer Beef Chimichanga (one of the most expensive items, it still came in under a sawbuck). It’s a huge flour tortilla rolled up and stuffed like a throw pillow with ground beef and beans drenched in Habanero and chile relleno sauces. The filling was intensely flavorful and hot; the black beans and rice served snuggled up next to it help cool the fire.

My meal, the Big Caribbean Burrito, was much less intense, but not at the sacrifice of taste. This tortilla was stuffed with red rice, black beans, chunks of Jamaican jerk chicken and flecked with melty cheese. Mixed throughout were matchsticks of sliced mango that added cool, sweet flavor. Both meals were made with fresh, flavorful ingredients and were pleasing to both eye and palate.

This is a kitchen that doesn’t fuss around with portions ~ our meals were so large and filling that when it came time for dessert, even though we were tempted by the flan, we had to decline. And judging by the happy faces of the couple next to us who had indeed decided to split one of the caramel-topped beauties, we were missing out bigtime.

Tortilla Sam’s attracts a wide variety of customers. It’s one of the few places in town where you find college students mixing with families and older couples. My educated guess is that the combination of good food, fair prices, generous portions and homey atmosphere has something to do with that.