11.06 Fall Fashion

Hot Clothes, Cool Weather

WOMEN’S FASHION TRENDS for Fall/Winter 2006-2007
By Christine R. Walsh

The warm and carefree days are fading and the sultry, sexy sandals and halter tops of summer must ~ sadly ~ be packed carefully away in the closet until next year. But the arrival of cooler temperatures should not be taken as carte blanche to hibernate through our New England winter in a shapeless sweater and frumpy jeans. The gorgeous foliage should not be the only eye candy of autumn! So grab a wide belt, some checkered patterns, a pair of skinny jeans and welcome fall with a new sense of fashion.

COLORS

One of the most striking significant differences between summer fashion and autumn fashion is not where the hem falls or even the length of the sleeve. The leap lies in the color palette. From June until August, we have the luxury of wearing a variety of hues. Bright blues can be paired with florescent pinks and pale greens and no one will questions our fashion choices. Summer is like the toddlerhood of fashion ~ you can wear what you want when you want and no one will give you a hard time.

Fall, on the other hand, demands maturity and a palpable seriousness in its wardrobe. We substitute the acceptably wrinkled and bright garments of August for the pressed suit pants of October. This autumn, we’ll all be growing up with reds, grays, blacks and whites. And to help make the transition easier, designers have given their blessings to neutral tones, too, so get familiar with colors like honey, pollen, terracotta, and ruby. Those of us who love are earth tones are definitely in luck! Feel free to invest in rusts, taupe, olive greens and khakis. For that extra shot of adrenaline when dressing for the day, be daring and throw in a purple scarf or purple belt.

But what about some powdered colors? If your personality begs for something softer than bright red, there are a number of colors that can warm up your outfit and give you a feminine touch. Accent your black and ivory ensemble with dusty rose, subtle plums, or cameo pinks. Skip the stark white shirt and go for the pearl or oyster grey blouse.

GOLD

This season would bring Goldmember to tears of joy. Gold is everywhere – in jewelry, woven through scarves, belts, blouses, adding some bling to shoes, some sparkle to blouses…You can even add an entire garment made completely out of gold ~ try a flirty gilt skirt, a gold lace dress for an elegant affair (Oh, behave!), even a gold evening coat. This metallic is perfect for glitzing up the more subdued colors that are dominant this season. Pair a great gold pashmina-type scarf with a pair of jeans and a high hell with just a hint of gold and MAMA, talk about the gold standard!

Leggings…THEY’RE BAAAACK!

Talk about a time warp! Are we back in the early Eighties? Should I hairspray my bangs so that they stand up five feet above my head? No way ~ skip the hair goo, but get ready to embrace leggings again (and don’t be afraid, they weren’t really that scary, it was how we accessorized them that was a crime against humanity). They’re wonderfully flattering to our legs and can be worn with jersey shirts, form-fitting sweaters, and elegant blouses. Not certain about bearing that butt? Try black leggings beneath a short denim skirt or snazzy red dress for a safer (but still funky) look. Ditch the running shoes that turn leggings into athletic wear and be daring with pumps and the oh-so-hot high wedge boots that are the star of the season.

Skinny Jeans ~ Bringing Sexy Back

Skinny jeans are all the rage this autumn and they once again prove that denim is a girl’s best friend and can take her from casual to club-ready without missing a beat. Skinny jeans are simply that – skinny. They are tight in the hips, the legs, and the ankles and look great with a black turtleneck sweater and a wide belt. How incredibly long will your legs look in dark skinnies tucked into high-heeled black boots? Think beatnik. Think sleek. Think fun. Think drop-dead sexy. Wear them with sneakers and a fun T. Wear them with heels, a high lace collared blouse and earrings. Just make sure to WEAR them.

(Special note: Not certain if skinny jeans accent your figure? Low slung jeans and hip huggers and still in style. Just don’t go for the super-flared style that is SO ten minutes ago!)

Shorts and Knickers ~ Going to whatever lengths necessary

Get ready for some unusual choices for your lower half. From fashions that fit Audrey Hepburn body doubles to knickers that make us wonder if we’ve walked onto the set of Oliver Twist, your autumn wardrobe will have you traveling through time. Take shorts or their longer brethren, knickers. They may not seem like the obvious choice, but there’s no doubt they can be turned into a cute and sexy look. Look for checkered patterns and neutral tones when purchasing and opt for tights when you wear these bottoms. Black, brown and tan tights will complete your look and may just prevent you from freezing your hiney off.

DRESSES

If denim is a girl’s best friend, then the dresses this season is bringing us are a close second. They’ll take you anywhere and can be transformed for any situation.

The classic wrap dress works well for a variety of body types and is generally low maintenance. Put it in the “Most Reliable” category. It looks great with the big chunky beads or a cute scarf for a laid-back cocktail party or some heirloom jewelry for meeting the boyfriend’s parents for the first time. The wrap will not let you down.

High-waist, almost Empire-waisted dresses are everywhere this season and with good reason ~ they hide figure flaws like no-one’s business. Typically, these dresses provide the wearer with that “little girl lost” look thanks to their waist lines that fall just below the bustline. Puffy sleeves and some delicate detailing finish the look and pair well with pseudo Mary Janes, tall boots, or ballet slippers. Rock-star a shorter dress with a slightly flared bottom with cowboy boots and a long Steven Tyler scarf and you are one funky chic.

SWEATERS

No matter what your shape ~ round, boyish, short torso, long torso, whatever ~ there is a sweater out there for you.
The sweater is the most forgiving, most loving member of your fall wardrobe and this fall, the chunkier and funkier the sweater, the better. Sweaters are giant hugs. Learn to love this season’s exaggerated collars, thick necks and big sleeves. Cowl necks add a luxurious touch to any look. Pair the style of your choice them with leggings, jeans or patterned twill skirts ~ a whole bunch of colors are coming down the runways, from blacks, browns and reds to ivories and lighter grays. Steal your boyfriend’s oversized wool sweater or go for a fitted, more feminine style. You can’t go wrong.

THIS AIN’T YO’ MAMA’S SUIT

There are few things more powerful than a strong woman in a well-fitted suit. This season, the definition of “suit” has been gloriously broadened to include monochromatic stretchy sweater and skirt duos as well as the classic two-piece jacketed suit. As for colors and patterns, you can opt either for the classic blues, browns, blacks and grays, or you can branch out a little and experiment with black and white checked patterns. Individual suit pieces are taking on a life of their own, too – rip off that blouse after a day at the office, pair that tight-fitting suit skirt with a T, a sweater, and a great pair of boots, and head out for a night on the town.

ACCESSORIES

If you have to choose just ONE accessory this season (and that would be tragic!), choose the wide belt. Like to accentuate your waist? Cinch it in. Need to cover that little bump around your lower abs? Hide it with a fabulous solid colored belt. Need just a little sunthin’ sunthin’ to jazz up your look? Throw on a gold belt. Perfect.

What woman can leave the house without her purse? It’s our lifeline to the world. And what great news, this season purse is big, bigger, biggest. Go for an oversized hobo bag, a chic messenger’s bag, a tote, a wonderfully broken-in looking saddlebag. Go for buckles, studs, zippers, goldtone rings. Choose from pebbled calfskin, aged and faded leathers, patent leather, reptile, goldtone. Find a purse that feels right for you. Don’t worry about going to big – you can keep a nice, ladylike clutch reserved for special black tie occasions. For the everyday, go big, comfy, practical, and ~ if you‘re just the tiniest bit of a label ho’ ~ designer.

AND SHOES

Say it with me, Ladies. “Shoes.” Just hearing the word brings a warm glow to my face. I hate to admit it, but that stereotype of women often loving their shoe collections just a wee bit more than, well, nearly anything else on this earth is just slightly…true. And the cooler months are heaven for those of us who fit into (proudly!) that stereotype, because we get to buy not only shoes, but boots, too! Twice the obsession that requires twice the closet space and twice the shopping…ain’t it GRAND being a girl! So, in honor of a season that brings us a veritable cornucopia of fabulous styles, I give you, to the left, a photographic homage to The Footwear of Fall/Winter 2006. Enjoy!

The Season At a Glance

VOLUME – Cocoon Volume – Balenciaga Sleeves – Big Collars – Baby Doll

DRESSES – Short Dresses – Long Tunics – Waist Cinched Frocks

LAYERING – Skinny Leggings – Tights – Sheer Over Opaque Tops

OPULENCE – Baroque Brocade – Gold & Metallics –

FUR TRIMS – Furs

MAN-INSPIRED – Wide Slouchy Trousers

GREYS – Darkest Charcoals – Light Grey Tones – Monochrome Mix

UNDERSTATED – Sharp Tailored Smart Suits – Trouser Suits

MILITARY – Napoleonic Ornament – Greatcoats

URBAN WARRIOR – Down Parkas – Biker Jackets – Body Conscious Dresses

COUNTRY – Textured Knits – Tailored Tartan Tweeds – Equestrian

Top social status brands of 2006*

Bottega Veneta
Giorgio Armani
Hermès
Versace
Dolce and Gabbana
Prada
Ferragamo
Burberry
Chanel
Fendi

* according to The Luxury Institute

Men’s Fall Fashion
by Nicole Steina

Fall is here…The leaves have begun to fall and with cooler weather comes a change in wardrobe! Men’s fashion trends for fall range from ski-inspired looks to dressed-up velvets to (get ready for this!) …PURPLE! Also, the slim, fitted look ~ that has been most associated with women’s fashion in the past ~ has made a huge impact on menswear this year; men’s pants are more fitted and sport coats and suits are leaning towards a more tailored look. There is something for everyone,so without further ado, I bring you the eclectic looks for fall/winter 2006!

Plaid

Plaid in a wide array of colors and patterns ~ is huge this season. One of the most surprising looks we’re seeing everywhere boasts bright yellows, greens and reds. You can find many men this fall sporting a big oversized plaid wool coat or a plaid cardigan over a plain white t-shirt. When bundling up for those extra brisk autumn days, wrap a cashmere plaid scarf around your neck to really pull the look together. The western look is also making a comeback, so there’s a huge emphasis on the plaid cowboy shirt for the more daring man. An understated pair of not-so-flashy plaid pants with a solid dress shirt is another look that’ll work for dinner and a movie. And don’t worry guys, you won’t have to spend a lot on plaid, either. Salvation Army is loaded with old plaid sport coats and shirts ~ choose carefully and you can throw the look together for 10 bucks or so. If you want something new, try Express and Macy’s.

Jeans

Jeans are as omnipresent for men as they are for women. They are basically our national garment. This season, they can be worn dark, distressed, slouchy (but never baggy), extra-long, belted, low on the hips, with dressier jackets or layered Tshirts (short sleeved over long is THE look). Dark grey and even black jeans are back, too, and the more advanced dye technology of today keeps them looking cool and worn, not like the blacks of the 80s. If you’re going monochromatic with your top, opt for jeans with a funky chamo print. And even though longer jeans are the rage, you can grab a pair of wider legged jeans and cuff them up if you pair them with European style man-clogs. Definitely keep a couple of “dress jeans” in your closet, but for your everyday and weekend pairs, either buy them frayed or let them fray naturally. If you’ve got the bod, pour yourself into one of the super-slim cuts, throw on a chunky belt and big pair of boots, and show yourself off!

The Ski Look

The wintertime/ski inspired look has never totally gone away (as long as there’s cold weather, it’ll be around), but it’s making an especially big return this fall. The down filled “puffy coat” is all over the runways and the streets in a large variety of cuts and colors. We’re seeing the to-the-calf length puffy coat in casual wear and the tailored, waist-length coat for the more professional man. Several designers are spanning the gap between casual and professional by offering the latter style with a hood. And if you go for the straight-ahead casual look, don’t worry that it’ll make you look like you stepped straight out of a Diddy video or a Michelin commercial: Just try things on and find the right cut and style for you. Of course don’t pick a coat that will swallow you up, but also don’t be afraid to go a little bigger than your normal comfort zone. Try Target and Walmart if you’re pinching pennies or you’re not quite sure the look will be for you. If you’re OK with spending a little more, try Macy’s or even TJ Maxx for tons of brand name designers like Fubu and Phat Farm.

The Cardigan

The Cardigan is back again, and this time you can choose from a wide selection of prints and knits. If you are heading out on the weekend, try a cardigan with a Tshirt underneath and a golf cap with a pair of beat-up jeans. For the business-minded professional who is sick of the mundane dress shirt and tie look, try a dressier, fitted wool cardigan with a fitted dress shirt and a tie. This look is polished and professional and will keep you from fading into the background. For a really dressy look fit for a CEO or for the man who is still married (by choice or by necessity) to wearing a suit every day but looking to mix things up a bit, try a lightweight cardigan in a black or pinstripe under your suit or sport coat. And a cardigan with elbow patches ~ worn sans sport coat ~ lends that aura of academic power that some ladies find quite attractive!

Shearling

Shearling is everywhere this fall, with designers dreaming up a ton of new styles for the classic shearling coat this year. We are seeing dark hides (if you can go for faux hides, do it ~ “fake” has come a long way in the past few years and 99% of the time can pass for the real thing, so you can save an animal AND look fabulous and the same time!)) and light, short lengths and long, and everything in between. Some men choose to go with the less is more approach, choosing a coat that sports just a little wool on the inside or a little bit of trim along the collar and sleeves ~ it’s a good way to rock the look but avoid sweating to death on those not-so-cold days. Shearling is a softer-looking alternative to leather outerwear and will definitely protect you from the cold New England winter. There’s also a huge explosion of the flashy and flared longer shearling coat, complete with collar and cuffs practically overflowing with wool and fluff. If you’re tall, confident, and like attracting lots of attention, this look if for you! Shack’s has a good selection of shearling, as does Wilson’s Leather.

Color

Color is taking a front-row seat this season and designers are bringing out the big guns for the man who is secure in his masculinity! Look for a blast of reds and purples ~ these colors aren’t just for the royals anymore! Yup, you heard me, guys…PURPLE! Don’t panic, you do have a few different shades to choose from, so shake those visions of delicate lilac out of your head. Plums and mauves are a little more on the understated (OK, some would say “manly!”) and might make you feel a little more at ease when hitting the streets. But if you’re daring, brighter purples are there for the taking too. And they look equally good on blondes, brunettes, and redheads. We’re seeing everything from purple blazers thrown together with a pair of jeans for a casual look to full suits made out of this rich shade. If you’re a little hesitant to go head-to-toe purple, pick up a dress shirt in a darker shade of purple and pair it with a solid black tie or a printed tie with just a hint of purple. And the cardigan look we talked about can pull in this color element, too ~ throw a purple cardigan under a black suit and WORK IT! For casual Friday, throw a purple polo shirt on with a pair of khakis. And for those of you men who really need to take baby steps toward integrating color into your wardrobe, try a pair of purple socks.

The Peacoat

The Peacoat, a coat that was made popular by sailors way back in the day, has stood by the test of time and occasionally makes a return to the forefront of fashion ~ and this year is one of those occasions. You’ll see three basic colors in this outerwear staple: black, classic navy blue, and pea green. This coat is chameleon-like and can suit any occasion or outfit because it can be dressed up or down. If you’re sporting a pair of jeans, throw a mid- thigh length pea coat on with a plaid wool scarf and head out on a fall day with a casual yet polished look ~ the quintessential New England look, in fact. These wool coats will keep you warm and make you stand out from the norm. Try Old Navy for an inexpensive pea coat.

SHOES

Don’t forget the feet this fall! Sneakers aren’t just for sports anymore. There are lots of dressier sneaker designs hitting the shelves this season ~ leather, suede, and bright colors (think blues, reds, greens and purples). The construction boot is as popular as always and is done gain in leather and suede in both dark and light brown. You can buy this boot in a taller construction height or a shorter, just-above-the-ankle look that’s perfect with a pair of longer-than-normal pants or jeans.

Now you know the big trends that are here for Fall/Winter 2006/7. Don’t try to rock them all at once. Choose a couple that you can incorporate with items you already have in your wardrobe to enhance your overall style. And have fun ~ fashion should never be forced, it should be personalized and give the impression that it’s effortless!

Five Must-Have Shoes for Men
1. The sneaker
2. The casual shoe
3. The black dress shoe
4. The brown dress shoe
5. The ankle boot

Men’s Fashion No-Nos
Bolo ties
Priest-collar shirts
Colored and acid-wash jeans
Birkenstocks
Flannel shirts

A Conversation with James Hogan, Designer
By Annette Cinelli

James Hogan, a designer whose label ~ during his very first season ~ appeared at Barney’s, Bergdorf Goodman and Saks Fifth Avenue, has a boutique right here in Worcester. The fashion expert took time out of his busy schedule to answer a few questions for our annual Fashion Issue.

Did you always know you wanted to be a designer?
I knew probably by the time I was sixteen.

Once you knew that clothing design was your destiny, how did you go about pursuing a career?
I apprenticed for a designer in Boston and attended the Fashion Institute of Technology in New York. There weren’t many college choices; there was RISD and then a few in New York. It wasn’t an easy field to break into, it’s not like today, there weren’t TV shows about fashion design.

Can you take us through the process of taking a collection from concept to what we see at your boutique?
Basically first I do lots and lots of sketches. We try to edit and figure out what the best pieces are going to be before making patterns. Each garment takes about 40 hours from the sketches to a final pattern. Once we have the pattern and want to see the dress in fabric we create muslins. The real fabric can cost as much as $560 a yard, so you don’t want to make a mistake on it. The next step is cutting in the real fabric. Once the piece is made, we figure out the cost to make it, price it, and put it in the line to show it.

The process can sometimes be interrupted. Last year I had designed a line with 6 to 8 military inspired suits. When I saw that a lot of other designers were using military inspired look, I scraped the idea. You want something that looks different and people will want.

Do you design all elements of a collection ~ including shoes, accessories, etc. ~or do you just focus on the clothes?
We just do clothing. The other elements are a completely separate business. You have companies that build cars, and ones that build houses, similarly you have designers who design clothes and those who do shoes.

Is there a difference between fashion and style?
Very much so. Fashion changes every season, people want something different, something fun. Fashion runs the gamut, it can be good, bad, or mediocre. With style, you either have it or you don’t. Some women with style are Audrey Hepburn, Jackie Kennedy, and Sharon Stone. Style transcends fashion. Everyone can wear the hottest, new fashion, but it’s the person who has style who is going to stand out.

Can you describe the look or overall feel of the 2006/7 Fall/Winter season in one sentence?
My line is really understated luxury; simple black dresses with clean lines. As for fashion in general, the Fall fashion looks better than it has in years, the clothes look pretty, not extreme. Everything looks really good this season.

Can you describe what it feels like to see a client wearing your clothes?
I love it! I run into people all the time wearing my designs that are 10 or 15 years old and they’ll say “I’m so embarrassed!” I say, “I’m so flattered!” It’s great that my clothes are timeless enough that people can still wear them today. Really good clothes are always timeless.

Do you have any advice for up and coming designers?
It’s not as easy as it looks, and it’s not as glamorous as it is on TV. It’s a tremendous amount of work, you have to do it because you love it. If you do anything for that reason you’ll do well. Don’t do it for the money, it’s so much work that you really have to love fashion to have a career as a designer.