Passing Inspection with Flying Colors

Junior’s delivers delicious pizzas and more in an unusual location.

By Bernie Whitmore

January 2005 – I just ate dinner at the same place that I used to pull into for my truck’s annual inspection sticker. Is there any place Worcester-inos won’t go for a good meal?

Junior’s Pizza Grille is located in the recently retrofitted Phil’s Auto Repair garage on Shrews-bury Street. The dining area is bright and comfortable and a wall of bay doors tease diners with the promise of outside dining in the warmer spring and summer months. Adding to the charm are some entertaining garage relics, red table tops and a couple of large, sumptuous flat screen TVs.

Junior’s was busy on a recent Sunday when my guest and I dropped in. There were a few tables unoccupied, so we took a booth beneath one of those wide Panasonics. A football game was on, but the sound system played pure vintage rock. By the time our waitress had a chance to swing by, we were ready with drink and appetizer choices.

Junior’s has a full bar with plenty of bottled beers to chose from, but none on tap. Those preferring wine should be able to find something acceptable from the short wine list; vineyards such as Rodney Strong and Kendall Jackson are featured. I chose a bottle of Sam Adams Boston Lager ($3.25). It was served ice-cold.

Soon, our Onion Rims appetizer ($4) was served. Junior’s could have followed the beaten path of so many ‘theme’ restaurants and come up with their own pun-packed menu. But this was one of only a few such nods in that direction. The ‘rims’ were thick cut onion rings battered and deep-fried — the insides were tender and the breading deep golden brown. The portion size was perfect for two.

On a previous visit to Junior’s, I tried their Meatloaf and recommend the thick slices of meat stacked on lumpy mashed potatoes drenched with dark gravy. At $8, it’s the lowest priced entrée. I’d order it again anytime, but on this trip I’d decided to sample their pizza.

While browsing the menu, I abruptly stopped at Shrimp and Corn Pizza (medium $10, large $13). I was compelled and ready to take a risk (our waitress hadn’t tried it). When our waitress presented it on the heavy wire stand, I immediately knew that I had chosen well.

Junior’s pizza is thin enough to have a crispy crust, but thick enough to allow you to enjoy the delicious dough. It was cooked perfectly golden on the bottom and the chunks of blue cheese had melted into a scattering of corn kernels, which added a sweet taste and crunch. Each slice had two or three medium-sized shrimp — the oven roasting had deepened their flavor. The pizza was also generously sprinkled with bacon bits, adding to its rich flavor. My only recommendation would be to educate the waitstaff so that they’ll recommend this winner to other adventurous diners.

My guest ordered Steak Tips ($10), a visually impressive plate containing big chunks of beef piled up on a gravied mountain of mashed red bliss potatoes. The flavor was rich, portion generous and the medley of vegetables was so delicious even avowed carnivores might find themselves straying into the broccoli.

We finished up with the classic Apple Crisp dessert ($4). Way too much for one person, it came drizzled with caramel sauce and was served steaming hot in a wide bowl. Packed with firm apples topped with crunchy crumbs, the middle was cratered by a scoop of melted vanilla ice cream.

A great value, the entire meal came to $34. I went home with half a great pizza and far more satisfaction than any previous trip to the garage!

Junior’s Pizza Grille is open from 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. daily.