Hudson’s Not-So-Secret Dining Delight

Chloe offers European fare with American flair in a cozy setting.

“Cozy” best describes the bar and dining area — oriental rugs line the floor, rich warm tones and murals of the French countryside cover stucco walls, and aged shutters frame open windows that look into the dining room.

Named after co-owner and chef Matthew Landry’s daughter, Chloe offers a different concept of the American Bistro. Instead of bringing standard American dishes up to date, Chloe’s chefs present American interpretations of traditional Italian, French and Spanish cuisine.

The appetizer special of Crab Cakes ($8) were a disappointment. The heavy cake was brightened up by the accompanying greens, but the dense and uniform texture distracted from the sweetness of the crabmeat.

and pork, but the diner wouldn’t know it. The meat was ground so finely that it was lost in a sea of pasta, which overwhelmed the Bolognese simply by its quantity. If this is American Bolognese, I’ll stick with the Italian version.

The Herbes de Provence Crusted Striped Bass with Fennel and Leek Risotto, Sautéed Brocolietti Rapini and Sun Dried Tomato Tapanade ($20) was delicious. The thick cut of bass was well cooked, artfully accompanied by the tapanade. While the risotto packed a punch of flavor, it lacked the decadently creamy texture this writer loves. Most impressive were the bitter greens. Hot and nutty, they would make even the staunchest of carnivores want to eat every last bite of their vegetables.

Reasonably priced and by and large good eating, this conception of the American Bistro is worth visiting.

Chloe, an American Bistro is open for dinner Tuesday through Thursday from 5 p.m. to 9:30 p.m. and on Friday and Saturday from 5 p.m. to 10:30 p.m.