2 Washington Square, Worcester – Union Station’s Main Concourse

Phone: (774) 600-0961

Bernard Whitmore

Such a contrast! One moment you’re passing through Union Station’s Grand Concourse, magisterial in its neoclassical beaux-arts design, a reminder of Worcester’s golden age. Then, when you step into the 961 Restaurant, you find yourself in a subdued space: a study in shadows and cool black. Dividing the concourse from 961 is a wall of mirror etched in massive Lebanese motifs. The station’s cyclopean bones and ductwork have been left exposed but, painted black, recede into the background. A sophisticated bar beckons at one end of the room and the soundtrack is treacly covers of alt-rock standards punctuated by the occasional burble of a hookah.

We met friends who were already seated and enjoying stretchy pita bread with za’atar, a thick paste blending olive oil with sumac, salt, sesame and whatever other aromatics traditional for 961’s chef. The exotic flavors made an exciting first impression of 961’s Lebanese cuisine.

After snapping their QR code, we each downloaded and browsed the menu. I found it adventurously heavy with appetizers joined by a compact entrée selection. The appetizer that especially piqued my interest was Shanklish, a Lebanese cheese of fermented yogurt coated with cumin and za’atar spices. However, our group had disparate flavor preferences and a bowl of Hummus was the item each of us could happily agree upon.

961’s hummus was lemony-fresh balanced with just a hint of garlic. It was thicker than most, so I grabbed the cruet and drizzled olive oil on my portion. In the meantime, we’d selected a bottle of Murphy-Goode Winery’s Pinot Noir. It was rich with the flavors of deep-red summer stone fruits and berries that wouldn’t be intimidated by our flavorful entrées.

961’s za’atar had made a dramatic first impression, but that was just a precursor to their stunning entrées. Mine, Chicken Kebab, sounded simple enough but on presentation it dazzled. Plentiful tender chunks of moist chicken meat, seared on the grill, came with char-dappled wedges of tomato and onion. Draped over all of this were long floppy triangles of pita charred on one side, spread with spicy red pepper sauce on the other. The range of flavors and colors were intense!

But that was just one side of the serving plate. Heaped aside the kebob was a glistening garden salad of torn Romaine lettuce, radish and cucumber slices, chopped tomato and bits of red onion all dressed in a refreshingly brisk vinegar and oil dressing. Salad doesn’t get more vibrant than this!

My friend ordered Kefta Kebab, a mixture of ground meat blended with spices and flecks of parsley and onion that’s formed into long patties speared onto skewers and grilled. It’s a staple item of Lebanese cuisine that came with grilled vegetables and more of that peppery pita bread and a mound of rice pilaf made the old-fashioned way with feathery-light vermicelli. 

Each meal came with a china cup of garlic spread. It looked and tasted like garlic butter but our waiter explained that it was a mixture of garlic, starch and oil. I wasn’t sure how I was supposed to use it because none of my food needed flavor augmentation. But, as fond as I am of garlic, I found it compelling and wanted to schmear it on everything.

The four of us were delighted by the ravishing presentation, flavors and fair value of our entrées.

 I wasn’t expecting such a delicious meal because the 961 Restaurant and Lounge heavily promotes entertainment and shisha sessions; to that end they offer a dozen different hookah flavors. At times we waited longer than expected for the return of our waiter, but if you would like to experience the robust flavors of Lebanese cuisine with innovative flair in a unique-to-Worcester setting, 961 Restaurant & Lounge transcends.