Bernie Whitmore

I watched with keen interest as the location housing Zito’s hotdog stand gradually reanimated as NOLA Cajun Kitchen. Is it really possible that this would be New Orleans Cajun cuisine? In West Boylston? The sign on the front of the tiny building, a crawfish popping a wheelie, was confirmation enough. This was exciting because we haven’t had Cajun cuisine in the area for way too long! Before we get too far along in this story, though, let’s set some expectations. For those whose dining experience mandates intimate settings with gleaming flatware set on linen tabletops, an extensive wine list and serene ambience; NOLA might disappoint. However, if you’re ready for some adventure with:

• Family renditions of America’s tastiest regional cuisine cooked daily by a husband and wife team in a space where the food is prepped just an armlength from the four dining tables,
• Meals that are served in plastic baskets and on paper plates with individually sealed plastic-ware; napkins from a roll of paper towels.
• Where the clamor of the kitchen is occasionally over-powered by an overhead TV locked to a sports channel,then NOLA Cajun Kitchen is what you’ve been waiting for. This is dining unplugged; Cajun dishes prepared by Roger, a native of Louisiana, and his wife Judy. From our first visit we found them welcoming their customers with friendship and big hearty flavors.

Our first visit to NOLA, with neighbors after a movie, was an exploratory mission that held minimal expectations. From the street it’s impossible to know what to expect. We were happy to find indoor dining and a comprehensive menu. By the time we left we felt like loyal customers. What I found, though, was the best Crawfish Étouffée I can recall anywhere. That, in itself, ranks as one of the Big Food Stories of the year. With introduction to the NOLA experience completed, a follow-up visit allowed deeper exploration of the menu. We started with an appetizer of Crab Boulettes, four golf ball sized boulettes that were deep-fried till golden brown and crunchy on the outside. Inside they were crammed with flaky crab meat and minimal filler; they were tasty with Cajun seasoning that provided a touch of cayenne heat. A cup of rémoulade sauce for dipping provided another flavor dimension. NOLA’s rémoulade is not one of those short-cut affairs that many places serve; its spicy tang tasted good by the spoonful. We paired that up with a cup of Red Beans and Rice flavored with small cubes of sausage, celery and bits of green pepper. My entrée, Gumbo, was the perfect way to warm up on a chilly late fall evening. The rich broth, thickened with slices of okra, was flavored with the classic Louisiana ingredients of celery, bell pepper, and onion. Cubes of chicken meat added flavor and a textural contrast to the softened okra; chunks of sausage gave the gumbo a background layering of smoky notes. Roger even manages to stock a refrigerator case with authentic Abita beer. Their colorful labels are something you take for granted in New Orleans but rarely encounter around here. I matched my food selections with a bottle of their Wrought Iron IPA – its cold, crunchy hop bitterness tastes great with Cajun cuisine. My dining companion, heeding my recommendation, chose NOLA’s Crawfish Étouffée. Served in a wide paper bowl, it came with a molded mound of rice plopped over it and was crammed with shelled crawfish meat. Based on the rich flavor and silky texture, I’m guessing the chef makes it with a brown roux to which he adds the bits of vegetables, herbs and Cajun seasoning. There’s a variety of hot sauces available for those who wish to ‘dial up’ the heat. NOLA also offers Po’ Boys, Fried Fish Baskets and Seafood Boil options. At the table next to us a couple were totally engrossed in a huge Seafood Sampler Boil. Their satisfaction obviously matched their hearty appetites and a heap of shells gradually piled up. After hosing down (this is a meal you have to dive into with all fingers) they departed with a takeout container of the leftovers. It looked like a special occasion. Even though a large part of their business is take-out, NOLA Cajun Diner provides a warm and hospitable haven those lucky enough to find an open table on cold winter days. Come spring and next summer, though, al fresco dining on their deck might be as fun as that motorcycling crawfish on their logo.


NOLA Cajun Kitchen 340 W Boylston Street, West Boylston, MA. Phone: (774) 261-8008