Ryan Cashman

The other day, I happened upon a regional map of Massachusetts and noticed something vexing. Central Massachusetts, the largest region in the state, is not affixed with anything remotely interesting to the eye or the ear. It is simply labeled as what it is: Central Massachusetts. The Pioneer Valley, Cape Cod, and the Berkshires have an aura of “elsewhere” about them, which no doubt contributes to their tourist appeal. Here we are left with the literal. We’ve been largely ignored by the rest of the state, considered almost a flyover zone. Yet, with Worcester’s rise in prominence, towns that were once lost to collective knowledge are starting to be found once again.

Enter Lost Towns Brewing Company, which emerges out of nowhere on Route 32 in the Hardwick village of Gilbertville. Despite parking being minimal and confusing to a new visitor, this brewery sets a precedent for what a small, rural brewhouse can be. As many ingredients as possible are sourced from farms in the Quabbin Valley. The Winsor Dam Wheat Ale is one such example of what Lost Towns is calling their farm-to-glass beer series. Completely dominated by its main ingredient, the hops are lost in a pleasing amalgamation of sweet notes reminiscent of biting into fresh baked bread.

Czabaj, a beer named for the former Polish market in which the brewery is now housed, is nutty brew that actually tastes like a liquified haze and is smooth on the take and finish. Other brews include the Sleeping Sheep IPA, mild and hoppy with notes of citrus, the Plough Horse Porter, thick and very heavy on malts, the Framdog Blonde, an easy drinking light ale, and the Solitary Reaper Chaos IPA, extremely floral and popping with hops.

Two other beers on tap are of worthy note. First, the Countryman Saison is yet another saison that I’ve found myself enjoying, despite the commitment I’ve made about hating their existence. The Countryman is fruity, bitter without being peppery, and altogether quite nice. Second is the Milkshake IPA No.1. Additional lactose is added to a milkshake IPA to give it a creamer, smoother texture. Brewed with two kinds of hops, mosaic and citra, the No.1 is more like a fruit smoothie than a frothy milkshake.

Bringing us back to the inciting theme, Lost Towns has inspired in my head the idea of affixing our fantastic region with a better name. Central Massachusetts is populated by a plethora of small, “lost towns” which continue to cling to their identities as farming and milling communities. But, within these lost institutions, new, hyper local businesses are springing up and bringing life back to towns that may have otherwise faded away. Worcester is a prime example. Therefore, I think our region needs a thematic title as opposed to a literal one. I don’t know what it might be, but I’m anxious to keep exploring and draft some ideas.