Bernie Whitmore

After stopping at the Treehouse Brewery in Charlton (which merits a story unto itself), we continued on to Sturbridge to meet friends for dinner at the Porterhouse Steakhouse and Lounge. It had been a while since I’d made the trek to Sturbridge, and I found the high volume of traffic carried by the narrow roads of that small town a rude re-awakening. In the fading light of Saturday evening, patient driving was required.

After exiting the highway and parking the car, the mayhem was soon forgotten. The design of the Sturbridge Porterhouse points away from the highway and toward the more pleasing view of snowy woodlands. The Porterhouse’s dining room and lounge are two separate rooms, united by the airy “open concept” we’re always hearing about in those HGTV real estate dramas.

There’s plenty of rough-cut lumber and beams stained deep, hardwood tones. The overall décor is countryish but blended, with flashy corrugated metal sheathing to produce a level of sophistication that should make all clientele feel comfortable. As if to stake their claim to steakhouse cred, Porterhouse prominently features a near life-sized Texas longhorn in the entrance. A gleaming Brimfield Flea Market prize? Perhaps.

The menu also strikes a balance, which should make beef-lovers happy, while graciously accommodating those less enthusiastic for red meat. Lynn, our server, offered gracious service and well-considered advice through each course. Appetizers range from Poutine to Bone Marrow with Tomato Confit to Charcuterie Board. The marrow sounded interesting, but the four of us decided to launch right into salads instead.

Three of us ordered Beet and Goat Cheese salads. Always enthusiastic for beets, I was impressed first by the salad’s format. Served in a long rectangular dish, the row of mixed greens was anchored at each end by a wedge of honey crisp apple fanned into razor-thin slices. Plenty of goat cheese, soft and mild in flavor, was crumbled over the length of the greens, and a generous scattering of pistachio nuts were tossed in.

Just as I was ready to sample it, though, my friend asked, “Does yours have beets?”
Somewhat abashed that I hadn’t already noticed, I explored with my fork and discovered there were, in fact, no beets. When we pointed this out, Lynn was clearly embarrassed and returned with little cups of beets for each of us. DIY salad, with beets that were decidedly unspecial.

Another friend had chosen the Wedge Salad, a riff on the classic steakhouse wedge. Baby iceberg lettuce was topped with bacon, caramelized red onions, sliced grape tomatoes and Great Hill blue cheese and topped with a creamy ranch dressing.

Enough salad, this is a steakhouse! So let’s talk steak. Porterhouse posts a rock-solid list four basic steaks in its menu: New York Strip, Filet, Ribeye and the Bone Marrow Porterhouse (for two). Then, for a slight upcharge, you can get them treated with appealing sauces such as Brandy Peppercorn and Blue Cheese Horseradish Butter.

My friend reported on his New York Strip: “Perfectly cooked medium-rare, as I ordered, with a flavorful grilled crust on the outside and pink and juicy on the interior.” The strip steak was accompanied by whipped potatoes topped with three huge asparagus spears. A house-made steak sauce akin to A1 accompanied the meat.

I realize that by ordering the Pan Roasted Faroe Island Salmon, I was violating traditional steakhouse logic: Don’t order fish! However, on paper, everything about this meal was too good to pass up. And the dish presented to me easily exceeded my elevated expectations. Done with skill, pan-roasting seals in the salmon’s juicy-tender flavor with a buttery, thin edge of crispiness on the exterior. This capable chef achieved perfection.

And, as if that wasn’t enough, the salmon came served over a medley of roasted vegetables, flavors bound together in rich flavor. Could the chef have deglazed the roasting pan? I daresay. Tender halves of tiny brussels sprouts and onions, strips of green peppers with scrumptious charred edges, softened roasted grape tomatoes… I loved every bite.

Spicy flavor notes from my glass of Keuka The Fox gingerbread brown ale tasted great with my meal. Porterhouse’s wine list was extensive, with a few selections poured fresh “on tap.” Sorry, vintners! I’ve turned my attention to American brewmasters.

For dessert, we shared Crème Brûlée. Its format varied from traditional; Porterhouse’s was presented in a deep metal crock and garnished with fresh berries and a dollop of whipped cream. Under the crackly sugar crust, creamy custard was thick with flavor so intense it was at the toffee end of the brûlée spectrum. Lynn had assured us the desserts were homemade. I didn’t question her for a moment and struggled to get my share of spoonfuls.

Dinner at Sturbridge Porterhouse was very satisfying. But if I had any regret, it’s that we didn’t order the Bone Marrow appetizer. They actually crack open a huge bone for what must be a decadent treat; if it’s anywhere near as tasty as it looked, it alone would be worth a return visit.

Sturbridge Porterhouse
407 Main St., Sturbridge
(508) 347-2700
sturbridge-porterhouse.com