By Benjamin McNeil

I rarely discriminate against the contents of my dinner plate; Ramen fuels me, just one side effect of being a graduate student. But I maintain a list of establishments I will frequent once Jackson and Franklin take up residency in my wallet.

As a regular contributor to Pulse’s Now Serving, however, I have interviewed many restaurant owners, who have collectively helped carve my perception of quality. Michael Bernier and John Piccolo, co-owners of Johnny Fugata, the newly opened Italian restaurant on Belmont Street (you’ve probably driven past it en route to White City), consider quality more than a 19-point Scrabble move.

Bernier and Piccolo, both Johnson & Wales graduates, take offense to the microwavable entrees and non-fresh ingredients used by too many restaurants. But you don’t need to believe me; stop by Johnny Fugata, and you’ll see an open kitchen inhabited by the culinary artists at work. As an aside, this open-kitchen concept captured my attention and respect. How cool is it to observe the inner workings of an authentic Italian kitchen?

Few restaurants make it big in a town this size without remaining allegiant to fresh ingredients. The difference between fresh and “everything else” in the eyes (and taste buds) of Worcesterites is vast. In a city with a plethora of dining establishments, time ultimately weeds out owners who place profit above quality food and a friendly atmosphere. 

Bernier said, “We make everything from scratch. We make it fresh and as close to authentic as possible, with a Worcester flare.” Bernier’s favorite dish, the Veal Vicenzo, consists of “sautéed, fresh, hand-cut veal; mushrooms; a little prosciutto; and marsala wine sauce over linguine.”

Johnny Fugata is not strictly married to ritzy Italian entrees; the establishment also boasts a lunch menu with more than 40 different (and creatively named!) sandwiches. Where else can you call out “Fat Bastard” and be met with a “Coming right up!”? This tasty sandwich features chicken cutlet, meatloaf, big pepperoni, marinara and provolone on focaccia. Other sandwich names I get a kick out of: Say Hello to My Little Friend, Three Little Pigs, In Cod We Trust and McHale’s Navy. Oh, and Fugata can deliver a Hot Mess should you have a party.

Bernier and Piccolo opened Johnny Fugata on July 15, but I envision the duo cementing their establishment as a Wormtown mainstay. Between the convenient location, the passion for authenticity, the open kitchen and the family = friendly atmosphere, I only see them growing. They also have a full liquor license and offer decadent Italian desserts.

Johnny Fugata is open 11:30 a.m.-9 p.m. Monday through Thursday and 11:30 a.m.-10 p.m. Friday and Saturday. For more information, visit johnnyfugata.net.