By Bernard Whitmore

In recent years, choosing a draft beer in the Worcester area has become much easier … just ask if they have anything Wormtown on tap. Wormtown Brewery’s IPAs are spicier and pack a bitter kick that’s always a delight. Knowing that the product is local makes the experience all the better, but really, Wormtown’s wide range of recipes hold their own anywhere.

So when someone mentioned dinner at Peppercorns Grille, I had something to anticipate for the rest of the workday ~ after all, this is the very home of Wormtown Brewery! When we arrived, I went right into the lounge area to view the brewery’s gleaming tanks through a large window.

Moments later, I was called back to the foyer because we were being seated at one of the dining room’s center tables. The large room is flanked by booths, but when you’re seated in the center, it feels as if you’re on display. On this mid-week evening, the place was packed with parties of all ages: families with energized children and older folk regaling each other with stories of dining experiences past.

Josh, our server, introduced himself and presented menus. When it came time to choose one of their beers, I decided to go for the darkest end of Wormtown’s spectrum and ordered a glass of Tennessee Tat’s. After a scan of Peppercorns’ appetizers, we considered the Risotto Balls; Josh assured us that, with four pieces, they were ideal for sharing.

Peppercorns describes itself as “casual Italian,” and it certainly earned credibility with the Risotto Balls. Generous in size, they were fried to a golden-brown, just a bit crispy, but without absorbing the oil or heavy flavors from the fryer. Inside, they were stuffed with a blend of mild cheeses that were stretchy and flavorful. They were served standing in a pool of zesty, fresh marinara sauce and topped by a scattering of shredded Parmesan.

Future dining note: Peppercorns’ marinara was so tasty, I wouldn’t hesitate to order any entree made with it.

Meanwhile, Josh returned with my Tennessee Tat’s. It’s so rich in flavor and has such high alcohol content (9.1 percent ABV) that it’s served in a dessert glass. This is a brew as black as Satan’s raven; it left just a thin tracery of head on the glass and a burst of flavors that exploded with every sip ~ whiskey, blackstrap molasses, espresso and finishing with rich dark chocolate. Unforgettable!

An advantage of center seating is that one is able to view several tables at a glance. When my companion noticed that we were the only table without bread, he asked Josh why. The reasoning for this couldn’t be simpler: Only ask and ye shall receive. So speak up if you should find yourself wishing for a crust to sop up that last trace of tasty marinara.

Our meal soon moved on to its entree course. My Grilled Salmon harkened back to the school of Architectural Cuisine, that golden age of food-stacking. A generous portion of golden-tinged salmon was nestled on a salad of mesclun greens tossed with creamy, mild feta cheese. The fish was buttery-rich on the outside edges and flaky and moist on the inside. For an additional taste dimension, it was schmeared with a vinaigrette of roasted Roma tomatoes.

Over this was tossed a handful of fried onion rings. In recent years, I’ve lost my fondness for them, so I was keen to foist ~ I mean, share ~ my rings. Unfortunately, my friend reported them uncrunchy and uninspired. No problem, the salmon really didn’t require a deep-fried topping.

My companion made his evening an all-rice event by following up the arancini appetizer with Seafood Risotto. The bowl of creamy-firm rice was tinged pink with a roasted tomato broth that provided the primary layer of flavor. The underlying seafood flavor gave the risotto depth and lavish complexity. He reported an abundance of seafood ~ scallops, shrimp and lobster. The forkful of rice that I managed to snag was delicious.

When it was time for dessert, Josh returned with a tray of plated offerings. He specifically pointed to those made in-house, and I was intrigued by the one with chocolate layers and thick peanut-cream filling. Then, I remembered my glass of Tennessee Tats; I’d already had my rich dessert!

When it comes to Worcester dining, Peppercorns Grille & Tavern is part of the very bedrock. Quality, value and service are always delivered. But with Wormtown Brewery, Peppercorns has added excitement to the menu.

Peppercorns Grille & Tavern
455 Park Ave, Worcester
(508) 752-7711 | ePeppercorns.com