By Bernie Whitmore

No gluten, dairy, eggs, soy, corn, peanuts, sugar or artificial sweeteners. That’s the weight-loss diet this month’s dining companion was engaged in when he accompanied me to Jimmy’s Tavern and Grill. Under these constraints, I might have been sensitive and concerned about the quality of his dining experience, but instead, it struck me as an opportunity to test the hospitality and flexibility of any restaurant kitchen.

When informed of this challenge, Kat, our waitress, was absolutely undaunted and began to list the menu items that remained available. Fortunately, my companion doesn’t have one of those PETA consciences, so meat, fish and sentient plant forms were all “in play.”

So far, so good. But let’s rewind for a moment and face a more compelling issue: Bugaboo Creek and the robotic animals. When Jimmy’s took over the old Bugaboo Creek Steak House location, the owners tossed out the animatronic trophy beasts and provided more spacing between tables. In the process, the restaurant assumed a more adult ambiance; the place is no longer overrun with little kids in jammies tethered to birthday balloons. Fortunately, they retained the most handsome Bugaboo feature, the large central fireplace.

A large blackboard lists drink specialties and an offering of beers ranging from value-priced Pabst Blue Ribbon to local/craft offerings. I chose a glass of Cape Ann Brewing Co’s Fisherman’s IPA, brewed by Gloucester’s Cape Ann Brewing Company. Not too hoppy, it capably took me through appetizers and into my entree.

With all but one of the appetizers off his diet, my guest learned quickly how to enjoy a garden salad of crisp lettuce, cucumber and shaved carrots. served with a light citrus vinaigrette.

Meanwhile, I dug into a plate of Point Judith Fried Calamari, a mix of crunchy rings and tentacles served with warm marinara sauce. This is such a basic appetizer that it’s often interesting to see what a chef might devise to differentiate his/her dish from the others. Of course, basic is often best; fresh seafood, a light coating of crumbs and just enough time in the fryer are what matter most. But Jimmy’s adds a twist ~ rings of zesty banana peppers were also coated and deep-fried. So every fourth or fifth forkful contained a contrasting surprise.

With the serving of our entree, it became very clear that marginal dining quality went out the window with the old singing buffalo head.

My Norwegian Organic Salmon was gorgeous to behold and absolutely delicious. The chef seemed to know exactly how I prefer my fish prepared ~ just a line of golden crispness on the edges and juicy, fragile flesh with every flaky forkful. “Organic” is an expression I take with several grains of salt, but from this dining experience, I trust Jimmy’s word on quality. I ordered it served with a baked sweet potato that I mashed with sour cream.

Even more enthusiastic, my companion was praising his Sirloin Strip Steak for its crusty char, perfect pink center and sumptuous flavor. “Come on,” I chided him, “You love steak wherever you go!”

“No, really! Look at this,” he protested, jabbing a forkful of thick, dripping steak in my face. “It’s delicious; deep rich flavor, perfectly cooked, juicy … aged 40 days, certified black angus … there’s no better around!” Lesson: Never tease someone suffering a deficit of soy and gluten.

We finished our meals with the same obvious question: Why we haven’t heard any buzz over Jimmy’s Tavern & Grill? The entire dining experience ~ service, food quality, presentation and value ~ were exceptional.

Jimmy’s Tavern & Grill
50 Boston Turnpike, Shrewsbury
508-755-8888 | www.jimmystavernandgrill.com