By Bernie Whitmore

Leo’s Ristorante
11 Brackett Court, Worcester
(508) 753-9490
www.leosristorante.net

In the olden days, “going out for Italian” meant large portions of delicious, low-priced cuisine served by pudgy ladies in dining rooms festooned with bunches of plastic grapes.  From the dawn of time itself, Leo’s Ristorante had all of these nostalgic elements in their little location on the corner of Shrewsbury Street.

When they moved around the corner, near the Mount Carmel churchyard, most of the tacky decorations that made Leo’s feel like home were left behind.  The new location was much larger and designed with nooks to accommodate parties and family events.  Yes, an age had passed and our waitress may have retired, but the food was as good as ever and I soon forgave them the urge to upscale.

Dinner at Leo’s has remained a special event, so when a friend suggested we go there for dinner I anxiously watched the clock for the rest of the workday, biked home and put on a spaghetti shirt to hide spatters of sauce.  It was early evening when we arrived; the hostess at the door looked up and invited us to seat ourselves.  I looked around and there was but one big man in a white shirt dining by himself (every Italian restaurant seems to have one), but otherwise the room was ours and we selected a place out of range of the frosty air conditioning.

Shaheena, our waitress, promptly arrived with menus and was ready to take our drink order, but we needed more planning time.  I was browsing Leo’s “Italian Specialties” when my friend noticed their menu a prezzo fisso.  Offered on weekdays, it lists three appetizer/salads options, a choice of a half-dozen entrees and cannolis for dessert ~ all for $15.95.  The selections were very well conceived; I would have been happy with any of the dishes offered.

Decisions made, Shaheena returned to take our orders and left us with a basket of sliced Italian bread and a cruet of herb-infused olive oil for dipping.  I’d barely finished slathering a slice with oil and grated Romano cheese when the first course was served.  My friend had chosen a garden salad dressed with Leo’s own dressing.  Crunchy chopped lettuce, shredded carrot, tomato wedges and cucumber slices were heaped on a butter dish and crowned with thin slices of red onion.  The dressing was fresh and as “lite” as springtime with just a hint of sweetness.

My appetizer, Bruschetta, had chopped marinated grape tomatoes spread over two slices of toasted rustic bread topped with shaved parmesan cheeses and drizzled with balsamic vinegar reduction.  They were served on a bed of micro-greens ~ a salad in its own right.  Enthused with the start of our meals, we’d barely finished when entrees were served.  A bit apologetic for the rush, Shaheena reasoned that since the kitchen was so fast, it was better to serve the food while it was hot.

Fancying himself an expert in all things Chicken Parmesan, my friend ranked Leo’s several notches above the competition.  Two large cutlets of chicken had been breaded, sautéed and topped with slices of melty parmesan cheese.  He noted that because they weren’t drenched in marinara sauce he could readily enjoy their subtle flavor.  The dish came with a generous portion of ziti topped with robust meat sauce.  Definitely a cut above the rest!

In contrast, my entrée, Pasta Tuscany, was a study in nuanced flavors.  Penne pasta was coated with brandy cream sauce blended with Romano cheese, bits of prosciutto ham and just enough fresh tomato to tinge it pink.  No individual ingredient dominated and the dish was enhanced by my wine selection, Castello di Gabbiano’s Chianti Classico.  This is so delicious you’ll want to linger over it long after everyone else’s plates have been cleared.

The one-option dessert, a small cannoli, was so fresh it cracked at first bite and was packed with sweetened ricotta cheese.  It came with a square slice of rich vanilla ice-cream striped with ribbons of chocolate syrup; it looked like a precious gift ‘til I attacked it with my spoon.

Scanning the brick and wood-beamed dining room, I noticed Leo’s dining room had practically filled with customers.  And in the lounge, a pizza twofer had every seat full.  Leo’s certainly seems to have figured out how to thrive in the recession!  But superior Italian cuisine, service and value are what really keep Leo’s Ristorante one of our favorites.