By Bernie Whitmore

Just goes to show what I know. Somewhere in the mists of time, I had decided I didn’t like sushi. Somehow I came to associate it with stuff you poke a stick at when you’re at the beach. But give me a raw bar with fresh oysters and cherry-stones and I’m in heaven. Now in hindsight, I can see the contradiction, just waiting to be exposed.

It was with the assurance that there would be fully-cooked entrees that I agreed to accompany a friend to Haiku. On arrival, we were surprised when informed by the hostess that all tables had been reserved ~ mid-week, mid-winter, on Park Avenue in Worcester ~ but were encouraged by the fact that all the tables were indeed full, figuring it was a good sign as to the culinary quality ahead. She offered to seat us at the sushi bar, an offer we were happy to accept.

Haiku’s dining room has two rows of tables that are separated from the bar by a stainless steel railing. The walls are tinged green and hung with sconces and a scattering of Asian artwork. In general, the decorative theme shows restraint ~an antidote to the Hello Kitty sensibility experienced all too often. The sushi bar is a long, gently curved arc of thick granite.

A quick read of the menu provided another indication that Haiku wasn’t going to be a typical dining experience. Yes, there were the usual sushi and sashimi offerings (one specifies choices on a laminated card.) You can even leave it to the chef to build you an assorted sushi meal-for-two loaded onto a wooden boat. But with appetizers such as Fois Gras with Green Apple Confit, I felt my tepid enthusiasm yielding to extreme anticipation.

By now I’d even warmed up to sushi-bar-seating as a social experience. There were conversations to be overheard, good recommendations offered and, most of all, an introduction to Chef Kenzo and his staff. We received excellent service from them. But the moment of truth was at hand. Like a kid deathly afraid of the water standing at the end of the diving board, I had chopsticks in hand, a sashimi appetizer before me. The plunge was exquisite, worthy of haiku beyond my talent:

Salmon, yellow fin
Impeccably fresh, subtle
Chef Kenso, master

I saw the light. Who couldn’t love sushi? This was achingly fresh fish served with painstaking simplicity ~ nothing by flavors and textures embodying all that’s fresh and good in the sea. We continued with a plate of spicy tuna sushi ~ rolls of sticky rice and strips of tuna served side-by-side on an oval dish, garnished with wasabi paste and thin slices of daikon radish.

Do I sound too lavish with praise? Well, get ready for more. This is a kitchen that continued its proficiency to the sauté pan. My entrée, Swordfish Steak Encrusted with Asian Spices, was creamy-firm inside, spicy-crisp outside. The rich orange-colored sauce was peppery with a touch of sweetness. A sprinkling of chopped walnuts added more flavor and some crunch; the portion was generous in size. I matched it with a glass of Oyster Bay Sauvignon Blac. Its crisp pear and pineapple flavors are always a no-brainer with seafood.
My companion’s Grilled Tenderloin Steak came exactly as he’d specified ~ medium rare. He raved about its tenderness and the rich au poivre sauce. We chose a couple of sides with our meals ~ broccoli steamed ‘til emerald green, still a bit crunchy, and French-fries tossed in Cajun spices.

Is there anywhere Haiku fell short? No. I can’t wait to return to Haiku Sushi Restaurant for its outstanding interpretations of fusion cuisine, its excellent service and the freshest seafood around. You may want to call ahead for reservations.