Bernard Whitmore
4 Worcester-Providence Turnpike (Route 146 Southbound), Sutton
(508) 865-8650
brickstonekitchen.com
The Brickstone Kitchen is a very versatile kitchen, indeed, with cuisine ranging from traditional New England seafood to Italian and back to American Regional. My dining companion and I visited it on a Monday evening that was surprisingly busy; happily, our arrival coincided with an open table, so we were seated immediately.
Though Brickstone Kitchen is located along southbound Route 146’s nonstop rush of traffic, it feels like stepping into a neighborhood refuge.
It’s not a large place; every inch is used thoughtfully for staff efficiency and customer dining. The vibe is clearly informal, and the tables around us were filled with intergenerational families and groups of friends. Customers greeted Sheila, our server, by first name for good reason: within moments of greeting us, she had ushered us into the friendly, caring world of Brickstone.
Browsing through the regular menu and its supplements, it soon became apparent that more than a few minutes were necessary to make dining decisions, so Sheila offered to take our drink orders.
When I asked about draft beers, Sheila explained there was a separate menu for them and returned with it in a flash.
Always on the watch for an interesting IPA, I was intrigued by the first one listed.
“Strong Side Brewery?” I asked.
“Oh! Everyone loves Groundwork, their IPA. Strong Side comes from the Milford area, and Dave Hughes, the founder, is such a good guy that we’re happy to offer it here.”
She soon returned with our drinks and a basket of bread. My friend’s Bloody Mary was classic in every regard; the tall glass was generously laced with bits of horseradish and a skewer of celery, lime and cucumber slice.
With my first sip of Groundwork IPA, I understood the praise. It is a bright lemony amber in color, a hazy brew with mild bitterness and pleasing notes of citrus. Its relatively low alcohol content, 6.5% ABV, makes it an easy optionfor those who approach IPAs with trepidation.
The breadbasket contained moist Italian bread and, even better, slices of herbed focaccia-like bread studded with baked-in parmesan cheese. Perfect for nibbling while finalizing our order.
It’s reasonable to question a kitchen’s claim to “scratch cooking.” The moment our appetizers arrived, we became believers in Brickstone’s claim to home cooking. My friend’s Stuffed Quahog was a huge clamshell packed thick and high with a breadcrumb stuffing of minced vegetables and small chunks of clam meat.
After dousing it with a few shakes of Tabasco sauce, he calmly proclaimed, “This may be the best stuffed clam I’ve ever had.”
My appetizer, Street Corn, came from Brickstone’s “Summer of Fun” menu. Different in format from what I expected, it arrived as charred corn sliced off the cob and blended with creamy avocado, cotija cheese, finely diced onion and jalapeño peppers. It was served ‘dip style’ in a crock surrounded by green and golden triangles of crunchy fresh tortilla chips. For true summer fun, “on the cob” can’t be beat, but this version was much tidier to enjoy.
Another feature for summer dining is Brickstone’s Fried Seafood Platters, where you choose from up to four seafood options. My friend paired whole-bellied clams with scallops. They were served around a generous plate of French fries topped with a tangle of crispy fried onion strings.
The clams were huge and meaty, and the scallops were golden brown and tender. From my side of the table, everything looked perfect. When asked, he offered one recommendation: “Less salt, please!”
Choosing an entrée from Brickstone’s menus wasn’t easy, but I managed to select what must be one of their masterworks: Jambalaya. From start to finish I relished the savory blend of Cajun spices, tomato sauce, andouille sausage, green peppers and onions. It was packed with tender strips of chicken meat and a generous portion of shrimp and came served over a bed of rice.
Like a jazz ensemble, each ingredient in jambalaya is an important soloist. Brickstone’s chef found their groove and produced culinary harmony in a dish. The smooth flavor of Groundwork IPA enhanced it.
As we approached Brickstone Kitchen that sunny evening, they were wrapping up a car show in the adjacent field. People were blissfully enjoying a perfect post-heatwave evening in the large outdoor dining area, drinks in hand, and musical entertainment was setting up. Sheila urged us to stay for a while after dinner.
Clearly, Brickstone is ready to make the most of every moment of this Summer of ’26.
