Ryan Cashman
There’s one brewing company I haven’t written much of in this column and it is one I feel deserves more recognition than it may receive: Wachusett Brewing Company.
It is easy to see why Wachusett may be glossed over when pitted against the plethora of breweries in Central Mass alone. They don’t specialize in Imperials like Greater Good. They don’t turn their IPA’s up to 11 like Wormtown. They don’t push the limits of beer as we know it like Treehouse.
What they do is give us a wide range of quality made beers which cater to virtually every taste. In this day and age, some would call that “playing it safe.” Personally, I find it commendable.
You don’t have to push the boundaries of science to create good beer. Yes, Wachusett has their range of increasingly hoppy IPA’s – Glory, Larry, Green Monsta, Mass Soul, Wally Juice, and Wally – well crafted all, but I find where their genius lies is in the deceptively simple. I have in mind three beers: Blueberry Ale, Summer, and Country Pale Ale.
We’ll start with the Country. This is the flagship; the one that started it all. The Country Pale Ale is the first beer Wachusett produced and remains a favorite among the brewers and the drinkers. It’s an effortless brew, smooth and palatable, with just the right balance of malts and hops. Easy to see why it’s remained so popular.
Onto Summer, which, ironically, is not the most summery beer in Wachusett’s arsenal. At least not for this writer … more on that in a bit. It does combine the classic, winning summer flavors: wheat ale and lemon. The citrus is not overwhelming, just enough to let you know it is there. This again makes for exceptionally easy drinking, a trademark of this company.
Finally, we reach my favorite: Blueberry Ale. This is actually the beer I wrote about in my first ever column for this publication (August 2018). This beer breathes summer. It oozes relaxation and satisfaction, especially when ice cold. It’s crisp, fruity, conducive with porch rocking or hammock swinging, and perfect with a grilled steak. To quote myself, the Blueberry Ale is a beer that will make you go: “Ah, that’s nice.”
I’ve been doing a lot of thinking recently on what my favorite beer is. There’s basically one criteria: can I go back to this beer again and again and love it every time? I am tied between Allagash White and Wachusett Blueberry Ale. They share a remarkable similarity, despite their obvious differences in taste. They are both simple and flavorful. You enjoy drinking them. And that’s what it’s all about, really.
Of course it is worthwhile to push the limits and be on the forefront of the next great phase of beer making, but that’s not my point.
My point is that, in the end, it’s not the complex chemistry we return to time after time. It’s the simple truthfulness of a well brewed beer.