If there’s a debate regarding whether Worcester is in a state of renaissance, I think it’s helpful to differentiate between rebirth and boom times. Anyone who suggests the city is booming really needs to visit Boston for perspective.

But rebirth? I’m willing to buy that notion. And if you should visit the 110 Grill – no, make that when you visit the 110 – you might even feel a wave of optimism brush by. For as much as we’ve heralded scores of new restaurants recently, they’re almost always rehabs of pre-existing structures, usually in the style of shabby-chic. That’s us. That’s Worcester

The 110 Grill changes that. On entering, you’re surrounded by walls of glass that look out onto a crystal-clear cityscape that’s new. The change is so profound that you don’t even stop to wonder what once – and not so long ago – stood on the same site. Future generations might look back on the Worcester Galleria with nostalgia for things lost. But don’t bet the rent money on it.

A view of post-industrial Worcester is one thing; delicious cuisine remains the more important criteria for dining out. That meant my dining companion and I had research to do.

In cooler weather, my appetizer vote would have gone to the 110 Tater Tot Poutine. But it’s summer and time for hot-weather dining traditions. So we decided to share one of the day’s specials, the Fried Clam appetizer. This trimmed-down portion packed mildtasting, lightly breaded whole-belly clams into one of those miniature deep-fryer baskets constructed of gleaming chrome wire.

My friend raved about how lightly fried and crunchy the clams were. “Like a clam shack in Ipswich!” he exclaimed. Agreeing, I thought they tasted perfect with my glass of Greater Good’s Pulp Imperial IPA.

On a recommendation, I moved into the salad course with the Roasted Beet Salad. Topped with a blizzard of creamy goat cheese crumbles, cubes of purple and golden beets were tossed with pickled onion strips, walnut halves and springy arugula leaves. Roasting is a wonderful treatment for beets because the high heat caramelizes their natural sugars and adds flavor depth.

Across the table, my friend’s Caesar Salad appeared less impressive to me. Insisting it was delicious, he said, “The dressing is flavorful and each leaf is coated.” Upon reaching a vein of shaved Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese, he continued his praise. But from my vantage point, it looked like a bowl of thick Romaine ribs – big chunks of white with very little leafy green.

Continuing with warm-weather traditions, I made the Lobster Roll – a special that evening – my entrée selection. Overflowing from a buttery, toasted brioche bun, large chunks of lobster knuckle, claw and leg meat were a lobster feast. The 110’s treatment is to go easy on the mayonnaise, which can smother the delicate lobster flavor. Remarkably, the chef gave the lobster a quick toss in a bright-flavored lemon aioli. I’m not inclined to squeeze lemon wedges all over my fish, but I found this touch of citrus accent exotic and welcome.

My friend’s entrée, Cuban Swordfish, had its own special touches. The blackened swordfish steak was “perfectly grilled” and served over a black bean, corn and rice salad. Delighted, he discovered the half lime quickcharred over the grill and gave it a few good squeezes. He approved, “Nice bite to it – very refreshing!”

I could easily have foregone dessert. But then I read about the Gluten Free Chocolate Cake and my choco cravings kicked in. Said cravings were fully satisfied by this warm, creamy-rich, deepest, darkest chocolate cake garnished with huge fresh blackberries and served over a vortex of swirled blackberry puree and exquisitely bitter fudgy sauce

. Yeah, we liked the dessert. And didn’t miss the gluten.

Even though the 110 Grill is new to the area and somewhat stranded from the principle dining districts, it was clear that Worcester had quickly discovered it. The lounges and dining rooms were packed, and the mood was that brand of upbeat we get when all the possibilities of summer loom forth. Surprisingly, despite being in the grip of a heat wave, as the sun set, the outdoor patio had some of the coolest – and most in-demand – seats in town.

Bernie Whitmore