By Bernie Whitmore

Castellana’s Restaurant
90 Harding Street, Worcester
(508)757-5575
www.castellanasdining.com

Visiting Castellana’s website, I found thorough information regarding hours, menu and location. But what really struck me was their spirit of self-acclamation ~ definitely a refreshing change. Such bravado released the skeptic in me ~ a visit was in order.

On the Thursday evening a friend and I chose to dine at Castellana’s, we had a generous choice of tables. The dining room has an open, airy feel and is divided by a low brick wall. On one side are cozy booths; we chose a table on the other side along a wall of large windows. The décor is simple and uncluttered. Live piano music ranging from jazz to rat-pack-pop contributed to a sophisticated ambience. Was my skepticism in jeopardy? Read on.

Just as Kris, our waitress, arrived to take our drink order, the host interrupted enthusiastically with a wine recommendation. He was so earnest that we ordered a bottle. Jesse’s Grove Zinfandel begins seductive and grows from there. Smooth with herbal and chocolate tones, it reminded me of sun-drenched blackberries.

When Kris described the evening prix fixe (three set courses for one fixed price, $45), my study of the menu was over. But fear not, my friend’s selections will provide a glimpse into Castellana’s standard offerings. Then, before the meal got underway, we were served slices of warm, yeasty, fresh-baked bread with olive oil for dipping.

My first course ~ Beef Wellington and Lobster-mashed Potatoes ~ was masterful in imagination, presentation and execution. In the center of a casserole dish was a mound of mashed potatoes whipped with a multitude of lobster bits. Reaching out of it was the meat of a full lobster claw. Two favorites whirled together…a triumph!

On either side of the potatoes were mini-fillets of beef tenderloin coated in pâté de foie gras and duxelles of mushrooms (I’m assuming Castellana’s uses the traditional recipe, it tasted every bit the classic) and wrapped in flaky puff pastry. They were served garnished with truffles slices.

Only mildly envious, my friend had found his Prosciutto di Parma a study in rustic elegance. A large dish was draped with slices of fresh imported Prosciutto ham topped with shaved Parmesan cheese; they seemed to melt together. Fresh figs dabbed with goat cheese came drizzled with a thick reduction of balsamic vinegar.

As a much-appreciated intermezzo between courses, Castellana’s serves refreshing granita, frozen fruit juice with the consistency of shaved ice. This evening’s flavor was cranberry.

After clearing the table, Kris set a steak knife into a cradle at my friend’s place. But he soon discovered how unnecessary it was as he sliced into his Grilled Seasoned Filet ($29) with a butter knife. This 10 ounce filet looked immense propped upon a crunchy potato cake that gradually soaked up the oozing juices. It came with deep-green sautéed spinach.

Drama and flavor were hallmarks of my second course, Hawaiian fish baked en Papillote (in super-cellophane, evidently the twenty-first century version of parchment). It arrived looking like a jumbo party favor, but then Kris untied the cellophane strings and released the luscious flavors of purple basil, citrus, vanilla and fennel. The fish, a thick snow-white steak, was steaming hot and had been baked over layers of sweet potato slices and split plum tomatoes. Seem like a lot of ingredients? They merged into a union of flavors that enhanced without overwhelming. My raving was disgraceful.

We shared my third course, a custard of green apple and grapefruit garnished under a garnish of spun sugar ~ another surprising combination, but that’s what I’d already come to expect from Castellana’s kitchen. At other tables, the flourish of table-side Bananas Foster preparation was contagious in its excitement.

Castellana’s banished my doubt with enthusiasm, innovation and skill. Their attention to detail in both service and culinary arts never became stiff or uncomfortably formal. So yes, the spirit of bravado and confidence is entirely warranted. When did you last feel excited about dining out?