thePULSE299 Shrewsbury St., Worcester (508) 752-3700
January 2006 –
If you’ve ever looked up from yet another plate of veal parm and sighed, “Ouch, I’m stuck in a dining rut,” it may be time to break out of the American-Italian-Sports Bar cuisine triangle and go exploring. And when that time comes, there are plenty of ethnic restaurants to choose from nearby. I recently invited an adventurous companion to join me for Indian cuisine at Surya, right in the heart of Worcester’s dining district.
On this mid-week evening, we found the dining room only partially occupied. A nod from the young man behind the counter indicated that we had our choice of tables. We chose one in the corner, stripped off our coats and, once seated, took stock of our surroundings. Though it appears to have been decorated on a tight budget, the dining room has enough paintings to evoke the feel of Indian folk culture. The music tended toward a genre we termed “Indian-dance-trance.”
Although the menu offers a compact set of wine offerings, we opted for beer in anticipation of spicy cuisine. My companion chose Taj Mahal while I ordered Flying Horse. Both brews are from India and come in tall pint-and-a-half bottles ~ crisp, pale and refreshing. Then we began our scan of the menu. It’s split into several sections with a generous number of choices in each: Appetizers, Grilled and Tandoori Breads, and Chicken, Lamb, Seafood, Vegetarian and Pork specialties. All entrees are prepared as one wishes ~ mild, spicy, or hot.
We decided to share a couple appetizers. Meat Samosa ($4.50) was an order of two large, crunchy cones of crust filled with minced lamb and flavored with herbs. Even though the filling was moist and savory, I spooned on deep red Tandoori sauce to add some sweet and tart flavor. Initially, I thought our Chicken Pakora ($4.50), a plate loaded with slices of chicken breast meat deep-fried golden brown, was a bit bland. But quickly it asserted a nuanced blend of spices that transported it a sub-continent away from McNuggets.
Soon our entrees arrived and any lingering vapors of apprehension regarding Indian cuisine vanished. Both meals were served in oval metal dishes with a bowl of rice. Lamb Do-Piaza ($12.95) consisted of large chunks of fork-tender lamb in a rich sauce containing tomato, onions and green pepper. Normally, I employ my restaurant training to analyze ingredients and preparation methods. Not here ~ the exotic spices merged in a unity that should simply be enjoyed.
If anything, our other entrée, Chicken Korma ($11.95), proved more refined. A luxurious sauce of rich cream, crushed cashews, almonds and spices (cumin…turmeric…coriander?) was studded with plenty of small cubes of juicy chicken. We requested both meals served medium-spicy and their “heat” was convincing without causing discomfort.
I dipped chunks of Surya’s Poori Bread ($2.25) in both entrée dishes. Although poori is flaky, buttery-rich flat bread, it was served straight from the oven, inflated with fragrant steam.
My companion and I were so impressed with Surya’s cuisine that our conversation centered on how soon and often we’d return for further dining adventures. We enjoyed ample portions of absolutely delicious meals ~ the perfect solution to the dining doldrums!
Editor’s Note: Surya will be closed from January 9, 2006 through February 16, 2006. The restaurant will re-open on February 17.
