thePULSEA New American Bistro
139 Green Street, Worcester
December 2005 –
Other towns might look on with nothing more than casual interest. But the opening of a New Restaurant in Worcester is a big event – especially when a long-derelict building in a marginal business district has been reborn with sophistication of both cuisine and décor.
My dining companion and I arrived at Block 5 on a weeknight. The lounge at Block 5 beckons with stainless steel, polished black granite and long low leather sofas set off by pale green walls so, although there was seating available at tables in the center of the dining area, we opted to wait in the lounge for one of the high-backed booths
Several people were eating bistro-style at the bar; cell phones were fired up and a pair of large flat-screen TVs were set to sports channels. We sipped Block 5’s special pomegranate martinis and watched vintage NFL replays.
We were soon summoned to the dining room. The booths are covered with an unusual material that catches your clothes as you slide into place. I was twisting my shirt back into place as our waiter welcomed us and presented our menus. The table was decorated with a small vase resembling an industrial spare part that sported an arrangement of twigs. Water glasses were filled (and attentively kept full throughout our meal).
Scanning the menu, I detected influences of most major cuisines; but my overall impression was that the fare was quite American. We started with the Parmesan Shrimp Fritters appetizer ($8). Five large, perhaps jumbo, shrimp were fried with a crusty parmesan coating and served with cocktail sauce made with the deep flavor of sun-dried tomatoes. The peppery blackberry flavors of my glass of Kaiken Malbec ($6) made a great wine match-up.
From there, my guest moved on to a classically-inspired Caesar Salad ($9) with anchovies, croutons and plenty of parmesan cheese. The dressing clung to the creases of romaine lettuce and had just the right garlicky flavor. I tried a bowl of Caramelized Fennel and Artichoke Soup ($6) and attained soup-lovers’ nirvana. Well, perhaps that’s an exaggeration, but the melty bits of blue cheese and subtle combinations of flavors were pretty exciting.
With water glasses topped off and appetizer dishes removed, it was time for our entrées. My Farfalle Shrimp and Scallops Sautee ($18) came with an abundance of seafood, bits of spicy sausage and diced winter squash. It was tossed with bow-tie pasta and coated with a creamy sauce. Meanwhile, my companion was effusing over his Bistro-special Fried Sole ($16), three thin fillets lightly coated with crumbs and fried golden brown. The snow-white flesh was flaky and moist. The fillets came with a pile of thin parmesan “frites” and tartar sauce so tasty that even I, an avowed enemy of tartar, found compelling.
We bypassed dessert – I’ll let you discover their version of S’Mores. During this visit and my previous meals at Block 5, I’ve enjoyed consistent quality, imaginative cuisine and attentive service. Tip: Try their burger; I don’t think there’s any better anywhere.
Although Block 5’s concept conjures urban-chic, with its walls displaying photos of near-by streets and its large front windows observing Green Street’s advancing decay, it still embraces its neighborhood ~ and I’m betting Worcester will reciprocate.
