thePULSECéad Míle Fàilte
You don’t have to fly Aer Lingus to get a taste of the Emerald Isle.
Nestled between an old-fashioned wood-burning stove and a wall of antique Guinness barrels, I settled into my booth at Desmond O’Malley’s, a surprisingly authentic Irish pub on Route 9 in Framingham. Irish lager is O’Malley’s signature offering.
The traditional Guinness Stout ($4.25) is obviously the real thing with its tar-like color and bitter, but smooth flavor, all topped off with a rich and creamy head. For a lighter option, try the Magner’s Irish Cider ($4.25). This refreshing draft has the distinct flavor of fermented apple, highlighted by delicate carbonation.
Entrees were enjoyable, if not inspired. A Beef and Guinness Stew ($11.99) featured buttery cubes of meat and the addition of first-rate beer gave the sauce dimension (although the molasses-like consistency of the stew sometimes
swamped its flavor).
Another pub classic, Beer Battered Fish and Chips ($10.99) was playfully presented on a sheet of parchment paper covered with newsprint. Two thick cuts of flaky cod sat atop a pile of unremarkable French fries. The beer batter was crunchy and light, but didn’t have enough seasoning or flavor to counter the characteristically bland cod. A bottle of malt vinegar and a dollop of intensely tangy tartar sauce were enough to correct the imbalance.
The star of the evening was the Four Onion Soup ($4.49). A base of caramelized red and yellow onions, along with leeks and spring onions gave depth and complexity to this richly flavored soup. This notable starter was not too salty, a common downfall of onion soups, and topped with a garlicky crouton and just the right amount of melted jack and cheddar
cheeses.
If you’ve made it to the bottom of your pint by the end of dinner, treat yourself to one of O’Malley’s decadent liquored coffees ($5.99) — the traditional Irish Coffee is the best. For those who want something more substantial or those who plan
on driving home, the chef’s homemade cheesecake (flavors vary by day) is a luscious choice. Our subtly flavored pumpkin cheesecake was studded with chocolate chips and crusted with chocolate cookie crumbs.
O’Malley’s is a perfect weeknight spot to meet friends for a casual dinner and fantastic beer. I recommend sitting in the pub section. With its roaring fire and big screen TV, the pub’s atmosphere best compliments the food, drinks and style of the restaurant.
O’Connor’s
1160 West Boylston Street, Worcester
(508) 853-0789
www.oconnorsrestaurant.com
