Real Italian, No Matter How You Slice it

Biagio’s serves up fresh, sharp flavors

By Bernie Whitmore

September 2004 – Biagio’s Grille may not be located in Worcester’s ‘Little Italy’ on Shrewsbury Street, but when it comes to Italian credentials, this Italian restaurant one-ups many of the others with its roof-top tomato garden. In past summers, I’ve admired the overhead tangle of plants heavy with sun-ripened fruit. This year, I decided to see if Biagio’s cuisine measured up to its green thumb.

A friend and I arrived just before the dining room began to get crowded, so we were seated without delay. Jocelyn, our waitress, efficiently went about the basics, taking our drink order, presenting menus, the wine list and sliced Italian bread with a dipping oil. She quickly returned with my glass of Piccini Tuscan Chianti ($4.50) and my guest’s Tanqueray and Tonic ($4.50).

With one bite of the bread, I felt as though I had been transported to a taverna in Italy! This kitchen was unafraid of the bold tastes of fresh garlic, roasted pepper, basil, grated cheese and olive oil. These sharp flavors delightfully matched the velvet smooth red fruit of the Chianti.

The walls of the restaurant were thickly plastered and painted a peculiar brownish-peachy color, thankfully interrupted by plenty of framed pictures. A green and white checkered vinyl tablecloth was spread before us. The informal ambiance was embellished by the music of Andrea Bocelli.

The menu featured seven appetizers, most priced at seven dollars each. We started with Sausage and Peppers, an oversized dinner plate with buttery chunks of grilled Italian bread framing a heap of roasted peppers and one-inch lengths of spicy sausage. I’ve had this dish a thousand times on Italian buffet lines, but it was totally different at Biagio’s. It was not swimming in oil. The richly-colored red and green peppers were sweet and tasted as if they were just roasted. The sausage was lean and flavored with sweet fennel and other spices.

There were a half-dozen sandwiches to choose from and a ‘Build your own Pizza’ option — each priced at $7. But we were there for entrees, and while there were numerous Italian classics, Biagio’s grille would be our focus of attention.

Entrees came with soup or salad, so I chose a mug of Minestrone Soup. Its rich tomato broth was thick with carrot, celery, onion, pasta and bits of sausage. Homemade for sure! Meanwhile, my guest was tackling a Caesar Salad. It looked a bit dry and, though I was just itching to find something to be critical of, he insisted it was perfect.

For an entrée, my guest chose the Nick Manzello Chop ($16), a double-thick twenty ounce pork chop that was cooked exactly as ordered. This chop was not only “really juicy,” according to my guest, but the marinade and rich veal demiglace created an irresistibly tasty crust on the outside.

I chose Grilled Tuscany Chicken ($13), a boneless twin chicken breast marinated in olive oil and rosemary. It was simple, yet moist and delicious. Both entrees were served with buttery roasted potatoes and a sauté of fresh vegetables.

I’ll have to save dessert for my next visit. Although Biagio’s menu lists Tiramisu and Gelato, both for $4.50, I had already over-indulged on their home-style Italian cuisine. Next time, I will make sure someone slaps my hand before I start on my second loaf of Italian bread!