Now if They Could Just Make the Sun Shine

Cactus Pete’s serves up a perfect summer meal.

By Bernie M. Whitmore

August 2004 – It’s just not fair! After four days of rainy July weather, I felt myself regressing, becoming as impatient as a 12-year old child for a glimpse of the sun. To help take my mind off what I’m powerless to change, I called a friend and we decided to have dinner at Cactus Pete’s.

After we arrived, we navigated through the throng of smokers who had been forced outside by the new statewide smoking ban. Inside, we were seated without delay. Our waitress arrived with a warm greeting and offered to take our drink orders. I considered the evening’s special — Blue Margarita — but at the last moment chose a mug of Wachusett Country Ale. Why not keep things local?

Before digging too far into the menu, we decided to order a Beer Battered Onion Rings appetizer ($4). The kitchen uses thick slices of large sweet onions. Our waxed-paper lined basket of golden brown rings arrived hot from the fryer — they tasted great with my Country Ale.

With entrees ordered and salads on the way, I had a few moments to scan the dining room. Compared to the chain restaurants, Cactus Pete’s is a study in restraint. The walls are barn board and tiled in earth tones. Saddles, longhorns and other Western artifacts are displayed tastefully. As with saloons from spaghetti-westerns, noise carries in this room and sets the energy level high.

Soon, our salads arrived. My choice, garden salad with parmesan peppercorn dressing, was colorful and tasty. My guest raved about his Caesar Salad – the dressing coated each leaf of romaine as if homemade. Having recently suffered an unsatisfactory version elsewhere, he enthusiastically appreciated the freshness and balance of lemon and garlic flavors in Cactus Pete’s.

Cactus Pete’s menu features close to twenty different burgers and chicken sandwiches, as well as a few pasta and seafood dishes. However, their menu is at its most enthusiastic when discussing steaks, chops and chicken.

From their Saddlebag Combos, I chose an entrée of a Half Rack Baby Back Ribs and Baked Stuffed Shrimp ($19). Served with a chunk of sweet cornbread and delicious roasted potato wedges, the ribs were coated with smoky flavored sauce and had plenty of tender meat. Piled high with seafood-flavored breading, the four juicy shrimp were fresh and springy.

After being informed that the kitchen had run out of his first choice, Texas Ribeye ($19), my guest settled for their Pistol Pete’s Prime Rib ($19). He chose the sixteen ounce cut, but could have sat before a two pound slab ($36). Served with a cup of horseradish sauce, it was tender and pink in the center, exactly as ordered. It came with a baked potato, sour cream and plenty of butter.

There were a number of desserts to choose from: cheese cakes, double chocolate cake and a special concoction called Tumbleweed. But we’d had enough and asked for the bill instead. Our trip to Cactus Pete’s managed the desired attitude adjustment — they always manage to combine generous hospitality, fun and good food. Now if they could just make the sun shine!