Skin deep

How to get that golden tan without damaging your skin

July 2004 – When you peel away the layers of the suntan’s history, you discover that suntans are a very contemporary idea. In the past, sun-browned skin was usually synonymous with poverty — farmers and laborers toiling in the fields had suntans — and thus those with money, especially women, went to great lengths to preserve their ivory skin, applying pancake make-up and keeping out the evil rays with bonnets, parasols and gloves.

It wasn’t until 1920 when fashion maven Coco Chanel accidentally developed a suntan while traveling on a friend’s yacht, that the idea of sun-browned skin became popular. Within 20 years Hollywood had glamorized the practice, picturing women in magazines, films and movie posters with perfect, bronze skin which now symbolizes health, wealth and sexiness.

So summer is here and you want that perfect, sexy tan. Unfortunately, over the past 25 years doctors and scientists have discovered that overabundant sun exposure and UV rays can be disastrous to your health. The energy emitted by the sun is estimated at well over than 386 billion megawatts and travels to the earth as ultraviolet radiation manifested in three types: UVA, UVB and UVC. The most dangerous of the three, UVC is absorbed by the earth’s upper atmosphere. UVA and UVB, however, are responsible for tanning and burning, and can be very dangerous for unprotected skin. The relatively new concept of “photo-aging” — skin damage associated with aging but incurred prematurely through sun exposure, creating a leathery look — can be traced to UV rays and an overall lack of sun protection.

Ultraviolet A radiation, affectionately nicknamed “the silent killer,” consists of long rays that penetrate into the skin, causing damage that may not manifest itself for years. Whereas Ultraviolet B radiation is comprised of shorter rays that penetrate only into the skin’s epidermal layers, causing the common sunburn; its effects are immediate, harmful, and as any casual beach-goer knows, painful. These ultraviolet rays are strongest between the hours of 10 a.m. and 4 p.m.

To protect oneself from the harmful effects of UV rays, sunscreen or sunblock, first invented in 1936 by L’Oreal founder Eugene Schueller, should always be worn. Sunscreens and sunblocks are equipped with SPF, Sun Protection Factor, standing for the number of minutes one can stay in the sun while wearing the product without getting burnt. SPF numbers, ranging from 2 to 50 (the higher the better) can filter up to 99% of UVB rays. UVA rays, however, are a different story, requiring “broad spectrum” sunblocks that essentially create a barrier between the skin and the sun with the help of zinc oxide or titanium oxide.

To determine the best SPF for you, perform an experiment: sit in the sun with a mini timer and wait for the skin to turn red. When this happens, multiply the number of minutes it takes the unprotected skin to start turning red by an SPF factor. For example, if unprotected skin reddens in 20 minutes, an SPF of 15 will allow 200 minutes, nearly three hours, of sun protection (20 minutes x SPF 15=200). Another tip: individuals with oily or acne-prone skin should use alcohol-based sunscreen, whereas dry-skinned individuals would benefit from cream or oil-based sunscreens.

Sunblock or sunscreen should be used whenever you are in the sun. Most dermatologists claim that an SPF is ideal for those wishing for sun protection but also desiring a nice, bronze tan. Lotions should be applied liberally, 30 minutes before exposure, and to all areas, including delicate spots such as the tips of the ears, neck, elbows and knees. The general rule of thumb is that one ounce of sunscreen or sunblock is the perfect amount for covering exposed areas. It is also beneficial to wear sunglasses with 100% UV ray protection and cover up with wide-brimmed hats, while enjoying shade under beach umbrellas. For lips, find a lip balm or lipstick with at least SPF 15 protection.

Re-application of lotion is also important; sunscreen or sunblock should be re-applied at least every two hours on dry land or after every dip in the water. Also, steer clear of butter or petroleum-based suntan lotions, as well as baby oil; they encourage sunburn. After sun exposure, use an after-sun lotion, such as cocoa butter or eucerin to hydrate the skin, maintain a base tan and reduce the risk of further sunburns.

In the 21st century, sunbathing is no longer a “fun” or carefree practice that can be done on a whim. Getting a tan takes a certain amount of consumer awareness and health consciousness. With cases of skin cancer and health problems arising daily from over-exposure, one can’t be too careful when striving to get that perfect golden tan.