Like a steadfast acquaintance, it was reassuring to find the dining room at the Grafton Inn to be as timeless as the town common itself. The cuisine and management has varied a bit over the years, but the restaurant and its ancient décor continue to be an asset to the community.

On the Sunday evening we visited Hunter’s for dinner, karaoke was in full swing. From the moment we walked through the doorway, some of the ghastliest vocals I’ve suffered in – well, forever – were visited upon that venerable dining room.

Nora, our server, presented an array of menus: Sunday Breakfast (served all day), the special Summer Menu (seafood dominating), Hunter’s Restaurant Week’s offering and, of course, the standard full-featured menu. Before delving into all that literature, what to drink?

The list of draft beers included Rogue Cold Brew Coffee IPA. Intrigued, I asked for a sample and was glad I didn’t invest in a full glass. The bitter flavors of coffee and hops were locked in a scuffle for dominance with no clear union of flavors. I was much happier with my glass of Revolution Brewing Company Anti-Hero IPA. For now, I’ll keep coffee in my porter.

My friend’s appetizer, Part 1 of the Restaurant Week menu, was a large bowl of mussels steamed in a buttery, herbed wine broth. This boatload of mussels, easily a couple dozen, was large enough to qualify as a full entrée and topped with a thick chunk of grilled Italian bread. He was impressed with their tender freshness, consistent size (just right!) and the flavorful bowl of broth.

Something was really different about that broth! And in a decidedly delicious way. We agreed that it must be fresh fennel that gave it such distinctive character. A splash of cream augmented the richness lent by the mussels. Long after he was finished with the shellfish, we were still sopping up any remaining broth.

My Caesar Salad (standard menu) of crunchy romaine lettuce was studded with croutons and showered with shredded Parmesan cheese.

Just a day prior to this, while in Harwich Port, I’d seen a family fishing for fresh crabs off a bridge out in the salt marshes. I longed for the experience and felt keen to join them in the fishing and, later, for dinner. So when I picked up the summer menu, the Maryland Blue Crab Cakes entrée just jumped off the page. My decision was made.

Three moderately sized cakes, dusted with breadcrumbs, occupied half the plate and were served over a bed of wilted greens. The other side of the plate was an artful drizzle of rémoulade sauce alternating with Hunter’s own spiced aioli. These sauces were superior to most: tasty and sharp in flavor – the feature flavors of this dish. The crab cakes themselves lacked crabmeat and flavor.

Chicken Pot Pie was my companion’s entrée choice and, in a sense, a DIY event. The chicken, vegetables and potatoes must have been cooked separately to achieve optimal doneness before merging in the rich, creamy gravy. The resulting pie filling was served in a broad coffee cup crowned with a thick, golden-brown expanse of crispy puff pastry.

After a contemplative survey of the components, he removed the cup, placed the flaky pastry onto his plate and emptied the chicken gravy over it. He commented upon the freshness of the peas and carrots and the ideal firmness of the cubed potatoes, adding, “It’s crammed with chicken!” Then, he focused on the gravy itself; its first hint of tartness registered surprise and a bit of concern. But then, as it became apparent the flavor agent was simply lemon, concern gave way to pleasure.

For dessert, we shared a wedge of chocolate cake. Nora had advised that it was made by the bartender. Nice job! Moist and oozing with chocolate frosting and sauce, it was an unadulterated classic – and big enough for two. We left on a high note.

Hunter’s Grille & Tap at The Grafton Inn
25 Grafton Common, Grafton
(508) 839-5931
thegraftoninnma.com

Bernie Whitmore